Safety wire

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bitza
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Re: Safety wire

Post by bitza »

Same here and it does'nt rust
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Group Leader
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Re: Safety wire

Post by Group Leader »

Reynard24 wrote:I've not lost a tank bolt in nearly 40 years so surely it must have some merit. It's also dirt cheap to replace when you want to remove the bolts too.
True enough, more than one way to skin a cat but why go to all that trouble messing about with twisting old bits of wire together when you could use Loctite .....

If you going to do it why not use the proper stuff? It's cheap enough! You don't have to use proper locking pliers as it's perfectly possible to do it with ordinary tools and make a proper job of it, it's just much easier and neater (for an amateur like me) to use the proper tool, again they are cheap enough. 20 years ago or more if you'd have bought locking pliers no doubt they would have been very expensive but very high quality but would have been cost prohibitive for a tool used, say, once a year.

Anyway, I suppose the whole point of a forum such as this is to provide alternative solutions to problems.

Let the user decide what's best for them (I'm sure that would sound much grander in Latin but I didn't do Latin ...)

EDIT: But Google does ... "Quid sit optimum iudicat pro utentis" :rofl:

Alan

P.S. I know it's my Beeza but the principles identical.
Locking Wire.JPG
Last edited by Group Leader on Wed Apr 14, 2021 9:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1953 AJS 16MS, 1939 BSA 250 and a 1/3 scale Sopwith Triplane but that's another story ..... :lol:
56G80S
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Re: Safety wire

Post by 56G80S »

OK, I use plastic coated heavy grade gardening wire (although in the past I have also used the copper earth wire). It just about goes through the hole in the bolt head.

I have had to remove the tank at the end of a long trip. While away from home the gardening wire will stand removal and replacement. I also wrap round the tank support mount and don't lose the bolts.

I do now use some loctite as well now. Loose bolts will chatter and/or corrode even if not lost. The threads end up stuffed and this makes quite a bit of work to reclaim the tank. I suppose copperslip might prevent the corrosion but I wouldn't try it.

Do take notice about the tightening and make sure you have the steel sleeves if you model specifies them (I didn't think they were always in place but Rob Swift will slap my wrist soon).

JohnnyB
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Taid
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Re: Safety wire

Post by Taid »

Group Leader wrote:And a pair of proper locking wire pliers makes it so much easier and neater.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/lock-wire-pliers/bn_7024964344

Alan

Could have done with something like that when I was in the RAF all those years ago, though, to be honest, I doubt there would have been many places with room to use them ..
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Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
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Taid
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Re: Safety wire

Post by Taid »

56G80S wrote:........................................

Do take notice about the tightening and make sure you have the steel sleeves if you model specifies them (I didn't think they were always in place but Rob Swift will slap my wrist soon).

JohnnyB

My 16ms hasn't got the sleeves, the tank threads appear to have been drilled out and re-tapped and the bolts are the same same diameter as the external of the sleeves ( didn't realise till I had bought new sleeves ) .... sometime, when the tank is next off, will have to see about putting some kind of threaded sleeves or captive nuts in the tank (further investigation required ...... )
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Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
56G80S
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Re: Safety wire

Post by 56G80S »

Hi Taid

I will doing this when I have finished putting the engine back together and already experimented:

http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 00#p232600

JohnnyB
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clive
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Re: Safety wire

Post by clive »

56G80S wrote: I do now use some loctite as well now. Loose bolts will chatter and/or corrode even if not lost. The threads end up stuffed and this makes quite a bit of work to reclaim the tank. I suppose copperslip might prevent the corrosion but I wouldn't try it.

Do take notice about the tightening and make sure you have the steel sleeves if you model specifies them (I didn't think they were always in place but Rob Swift will slap my wrist soon).
JohnnyB
Watch out Mick bodger's tip coming up

Once the threads are stuffed an early mini exhaust rubber will screw in very neatly. They are about the same depth as the correct tank rubber with a plate and threaded stud glued on top and bottom. Top one winds into the knackered hole (stud is not long enough to damage tank) bottom one goes through the frame mount and with a the small rubber looks the part. Only problem is they make taking the tank on and off a bit more of a faff. Easier if you have a single seat than a dual seat and depending on the depth of the tank. I have all four on one bike and have never seen the reason to repair the threads. I carry a spare exhaust rubber when travelling long distance on my other bikes in case I loose a bolt. Too lazy to wire the bolt on. :rofl:
clive
if it ain't broke don't fix
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PGGuse
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Re: Safety wire

Post by PGGuse »

clive wrote: Too lazy to wire the bolt on. :rofl:
Me too :D
Paul
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56G80S
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Re: Safety wire

Post by 56G80S »

I read Clive's tip in a previous thread and have a set of the Mini cotton reel rubbers but don't plan to use them now.

If Taid's going down that route I'll send them for the postage only - not advertising, Clive.

JohnnyB
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GOLDSTAR
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Re: Safety wire

Post by GOLDSTAR »

I use a similar system to that above on another make bike, threaded a brass rod use this into the tank retainer with a small piece of steel plate above to prevent piercing the tank then use a nut at 'tother end, I do however drill through both nut flat and stud and wire both to the mounting point.
kind regards
Locked