Resurrecting this old thread after reading lots of items (including stuff I posted) around this kind of topic. I'm using my recon dynamo (Tony Cooper), earth lead direct to bulb holders at 6 volt E3N (short) and electronic regulator.
Some background. I have a new (ish) Lucas 700 headlight. I'd tried an LED (not sure of supplier, either Classic Dynamo & Regulator or ClassicCar LEDs) and the beam pattern poor. Refitted an older Halogen (Paul Goff) and that wasn't too good either. It was no wonder. When I compared the LED, Halogen and an old very cheap Tungsten, the "filaments" were all at separate distances from the seating ring.
The best beam pattern was with the old Tungsten. After revisiting the connections, cleaning up and tidying I took a ride to Helmsley last night at a time when it would be just about dark when I got back. Battery wasn't fully charged and I had the headlight on from the off. I had originally hoped to run down to the East Riding section for first time but thought "have usable lights first."
Despite the low power (and the need to adjust the beam height up a bit) it was better with the Tungsten than the LED or Halogen were just because there was light where needed. Battery fully charged on return (LED rear lights and indicators fitted).
See the Wipac H4 unit on Auto Eelectrical Wiring Products and elsewhere. Tempted to get one, with Halogen P43t 35/35W bulb. Let's face it, the plug connecting the H4 stuff appears to be much more robust and accurate than the BPF springs on wires. If push comes to shove, I've got one of those step up transformer things I haven't used and could run a 12v bulb at 35/35W although guess I'd need to fit a relay for switching? Probably ought to anyway.
Note Rob Swift's comment on a different thread about only just balancing a Halogen 35/35w but I could fit a better battery than the tired Yuasa lead acid. I'm definitely only at less then 40 mph when going through villages and most of last night at 55 - 65mph (indicated).
Johnny B
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