Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

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1957M30
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by 1957M30 »

Thanks Rob

Yes I did want to know the length of the cable you recommended before purchasing it
But I have gone ahead and ordered it along with the others parts I need.

The cable that came off had an outer of approx 39 1/2" ( the handle bar end pulled out of the round nipple) and an inner of approx 44".

Will post my next problem later...............bent centre stand. The near side leg is bent and I guess it should be straight !


Cheers

Karol
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Rob Harknett
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by Rob Harknett »

The bent centre stand has just recently been discussed Karol. So all answers are there waiting for you. http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20986
Hope the cable fits OK. You do need a cable to fit the gearbox you have. Which will have correct adjuster and free play required. The total length should fit any road bike, length may differ on a comp model. The cable from the club may have a barrel nipple soldered on, not the loose barrel nipple that fits on another nipple. I prefer that type. If the wire pulls through you just need to solder on a new nipple. If the wire pulls through the nipple on the loose barrel type, the loose barrel always falls out and is lost. So you need both the loose barrel and the nipple that fits in the barrel in your spares box.
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1957M30
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by 1957M30 »

Rob Harknett wrote:The bent centre stand has just recently been discussed Karol. So all answers are there waiting for you. http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20986
Hope the cable fits OK. You do need a cable to fit the gearbox you have. Which will have correct adjuster and free play required. The total length should fit any road bike, length may differ on a comp model. The cable from the club may have a barrel nipple soldered on, not the loose barrel nipple that fits on another nipple. I prefer that type. If the wire pulls through you just need to solder on a new nipple. If the wire pulls through the nipple on the loose barrel type, the loose barrel always falls out and is lost. So you need both the loose barrel and the nipple that fits in the barrel in your spares box.

Thanks Rob......... I also much prefer the soldered barrel nipple as when the clutch went last wee in Cheltenham I had to search for it on a busy road .....!!!

I will be making a hearth in our BBQ using a garden blower to get the coals up to temp thus getting
The bent stand leg to cherry red and allowing the straightening, will then weld a fixing on for the foot bar.


Cheers

Karol
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Rob Harknett
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by Rob Harknett »

I have also lost the loose type barrels before I even fit the cable on the bike. Clutch or front brake. They have not been in the box. If you buy a cable in person, at shop or Auto jumble, it is always a good idea to check inside to see if you have loose or soldered barrel nipple.
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1957M30
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by 1957M30 »

Rob Harknett wrote:I have also lost the loose type barrels before I even fit the cable on the bike. Clutch or front brake. They have not been in the box. If you buy a cable in person, at shop or Auto jumble, it is always a good idea to check inside to see if you have loose or soldered barrel nipple.
Top tip .....👍
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1957M30
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by 1957M30 »

Parts arrived and all ready for reasembley......👌👌👌
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by 1957M30 »

:cry: :cry: :cry:

all assembled and still got the problem........
the new 5/16" trust rod is slightly shorter than the old 1/4" one, I guess its either send it back to club spares or maybe put another ball in....???

should the chainwheel/hub assembley as seen in the photo wobble slightly ?
I guess not so will have to take the L/H case off and check for wear and loose nuts....... :x :x :x

looking forward to your thoughts on this matter

cheers

Karol
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by 1957M30 »

Rob Harknett wrote:So the cable has not seized or broken. Just pulled in the clutch lever and it wont return? The lever should return, Unless thrust rod has seized. or the nut etc has come loose perhaps come off the clutch. The clutch springs should close the clutch, pushing the thrust rod through to snap the levers back taking up all the slack in the cable, which is not happening for you. That's about all I can think of for you to consider and investigate.
Two replies Mick agrees. look at the clutch end nut etc has not come off its its all intact thrust rod may have jammed.

:idea: Off to open up the chain case.......................
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by Rob Harknett »

I cannot recall the thrust rod length you had or if you have 4 or 5 plate clutch. I guess it depends what has been used on your bike. 4 plate clutch 9 7/8 " thrust rod 5 plate 10 3/16" thrust rod. Springs etc. would be longer with 5 plate. It is easy to discover and advise what is standard for a year/model bike. Difficult if not standard, first must establish what part/ parts have been used. If everything seems correct, but adjustment cannot be made, maybe clutch plate linings are thicker than standard. You may have end up making a custom length thrust rod. I actually had to do that back in the 1950's. Quite easy then, went to local dealer, who would disappear out the back of the shop for about 5 minutes later, come back with thrust rod cut to length. Just got a warning it may still be warm after case hardening it. I had rode the bike to the shop with the outer chain case cover off. Fitted new rod and got back loads more cable adjustment.
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1957M30
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Re: Clutch actuating lever jammed ❗️

Post by 1957M30 »

Rob Harknett wrote:I cannot recall the thrust rod length you had or if you have 4 or 5 plate clutch. I guess it depends what has been used on your bike. 4 plate clutch 9 7/8 " thrust rod 5 plate 10 3/16" thrust rod. Springs etc. would be longer with 5 plate. It is easy to discover and advise what is standard for a year/model bike. Difficult if not standard, first must establish what part/ parts have been used. If everything seems correct, but adjustment cannot be made, maybe clutch plate linings are thicker than standard. You may have end up making a custom length thrust rod. I actually had to do that back in the 1950's. Quite easy then, went to local dealer, who would disappear out the back of the shop for about 5 minutes later, come back with thrust rod cut to length. Just got a warning it may still be warm after case hardening it. I had rode the bike to the shop with the outer chain case cover off. Fitted new rod and got back loads more cable adjustment.

Hi Rob

looks like a 5 plate clutch so I need a 10 3/16" rod and not the 9 7/8" that I got from club spares.( will have to get it exchanged),
but they don't have the one I need in stock......!
the cable you specified was exactly the same as the one I previously purchased ( they both have 703 marked on the box)

have got this far.................. and now need to work out the removal of the brass holed nut (its not on the diagram I have) to investigate the "wobble"

btw............... the case didn't have a gasket or any sealant around it....and it didn't leak.!!!
will order up a gasket anyhow.

one last question........ is there a minimum thickness for the clutch plates ? want to check as this would be a good time to change them and am not sure how thick they are from new.

cheers

Karol
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