1955 Front Mudguard positioning

[altette]

I have encountered a problem with the mounting of the front mudguard on my 1955 Matchless G3LS - I wonder if anyone can advise or shed some light ?

When I bought the machine I noticed that the front of the mudguard (It is original undamaged steel AMC and of the correct pattern with the scalloped supports for the fork mountings) was somewhat high at the front - this meant that in the middle it was being caught by the fork leg shrouds as the forks compressed and of course it was spoiling the lines of the front end somewhat....

I resolved to undo where necessary and move it into the correct position (following the line of the wheel/tyre) when I had time....alas this is an old British bike and of course things are not that easy....struggle as I may it would not position correctly, it seems that the mudguard stay/stand fitted to this model wants to pull the bottom end in too much with the consequent raised front edge, no amount of jiggling and so on will correct it and the shroud problem persists...I have compared the stay in question with two more that I have, (Both original) and they are the same length etc so the one fitted is not a botch up or incorrect etc...

It occurred to me that this is the only year that this mudguard and the stand/stay combination was fitted, I wondered if there was a longer version of this stay made for this year and that I have the wrong part...(the parts catalogues seem to discredit this theory)

I could perhaps adjust the mudguard slots with a file or attempt to cut and weld a longer stay but don't really want to do either !! - has anyone any ideas ? - thanks

P.S. I notice there is a nice 1955 G9 for sale at Kettering bike sales and its mudguard/stay/stand (the same as mine) fits a treat - I hope to get mine to do the same !!

[GOLDSTAR]

ask Kettering to measure the one fitted to their bike and compare it with yours. kind regards

[altette]

...That's a good idea - I have just sent an email to Surbeys ordering some spares - I have asked him about the problem, I shall see what he says...my stay is approx 14 and a half inches long from front to rear, maybe he stocks longer ones (doubt it) but if that fails I shall phone Kettering and see if they will assist with a bit of measuring - they will probably suggest that I buy it and measure it myself LOL ! - not a bad idea actually, its a nice one....I have always fancied a twin...

[Rob Harknett]

I had a 55 G3LS almost new back in the 50's and the shrouds got scuffed. Also the inside of the shrouds scuffed chrome part. The 55 G3LS I have now has the same wear. The same wear is found where shrouds scuff the inner chrome part on rear suspension. Such wear is common on most marques suspension.

[dave16mct]

I've also had a couple of '55 bikes and if I remember correctly... the mudguard had a nut and bolt, the bolt extended rearwards and fitted through the slot in the stay. Then an extended domed head nut held it together. So to drop the stay down you just slackened the dome head nut. So the thickness of the nut and washers could be adjusted to suit your mudguard alignment. I can't remember any problems with mine.
Dave

[altette]

Thanks for those comments - I have spoken to Mr Surbey at AMC Classic spares and he confirms that there were no 'Alternative' stays for the '55 year (seemed unlikely) and he suggests that the mudguard itself must be the problem, he reckons that there have been some very good replicas about and mine is probably one of them - without another to compare it too it might be difficult to establish this however...I shall just have to make some adjustments to the mounting holes/slots at the fork attachment points and see if I can get it to co-operate...I am sure that that will be possible - now where is that round file....

[G15 Roy]

ask Kettering to measure the one fitted to their bike and compare it with yours. kind regards

keep your hands off my bike a photo may help us to see the problem.

[Rob Harknett]

The front guards do tend to twist, forks also. So it will be difficult to line up. It is also possible to close up the gap of fork legs when fitting the wheel. If you think you have the bottom caps tight, when you tighten the spindle nut, it may still pull the legs in. Or the spindle in the forks the other end. Depends which bottom cap allows the spindle to slip through. I have seen some bikes, where the non threaded end of the spindle has been pulled almost 1/2 " into the forks. Due to not getting the spindle in the correct position and fully tightening the bottom cap, before going to the other side. Tightening that bottom cap then spindle nut. This can also twist the guard.

[altette]

Thanks Rob and Roy - I shall pay extra attention to the re-assembly of the bottom end of the fork when I have sorted the mudguard - I can understand what you are saying about the tightening of the various fixings and the misalignment and distortion careless asembling may cause - of course I will be attempting to get the brake plate in the correct centralised position as well (during the final tightening - in the time honoured manner with strong rubber bands around the brake lever to hold it on) - to try to get the best function from the unit....

The fork shroud chafing is, I know, a common problem and when I get things sorted this may persist to a degree - at the moment though it is because the guard is canted backwards and the indentations for the forks are not in line with the legs, chafing is inevitable but I hope to lessen this with a bit of skilled filing of the guard mounting holes - it must be pivoting on the top of the back holes, I shall start there !!

That G9 at Kettering is very nice - I hope someone buys it soon !!