Before I go on, some out there may guffaw and call me stupid, but I prefer inexperienced!!
I had my G3L tank filled and re-sprayed by a professional, and it looked great, but, I was a little hasty as it was quite rusty inside, and in hindsight, I should have de-corroded it first with Hydrochloric acid or similar.
Well, I tried Apple cider Vinegar, and it does not seem to have worked, but even worse, the tank leaked form a few places on the bottom.
I cannot say on here what I said under my breath!!
Has anyone out there got experience of the POR15 Fuel Tank Sealing kit, and does it work?Does anyone have any useful tips, and recommendations?
Thanks
G3L 1943 Rusty and leaky fuel tank
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Re: G3L 1943 Rusty and leaky fuel tank
I have used por15 in all my tanks, it does seem to work O.K | do also buy the two other recommended products and adhere to the instructions, once coated with por15, or similar, allow the coating to harden I always allow at least a week[ more if possible], it seems to work for me, well so far anyway. kind regards
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Re: G3L 1943 Rusty and leaky fuel tank
similar thing but I use flow liner . start off with the bio rust for a day then the coating for 7 days costs about £50 per tank but works fantastic .
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Re: G3L 1943 Rusty and leaky fuel tank
por does the trick follow the instructions to theletter
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Re: G3L 1943 Rusty and leaky fuel tank
try here, uk based products and support .
http://tankcareproducts.co.uk/
i did 3 tanks , one with petseal which was ok but is more like a paint coating than an expoxy liner , although was cheap and ok for the little mower engine .
did an ariel tank using CARSWELL tank sealer , worked great but you do need to do it when it hot in the height of summer , ie at least 70degs f in order for the epoxy to run easily inside the tank .
carswell has a nice thick clear coating , it does take about half a day to do the job though and you have to prepare the tank and also rotate it in all directions , every 5mins or so in order to get the epoxy to cover the whole inside of the tank .
plug the fuel tap holes with kids modelling clay , you may need to open it out with a tap afterwards to get the thread all the way through and might have to pass a drill up the hole by hand or light drill to enlarge the hole for fuel tap and filter .
i think the tankcare products heat the epoxy up in a microwave and so it will probably be easier to use their tank sealer than many others , especially in our climate .
i cleaned another tank out using malt vinegar , it worked , but you need to leave it for a week to be honest , and shake it about , although i bought a gallon of it and the tank i did was not much more than a gallon , so it was filled with the vinegar and i added a pint of water to it as well , but could have done with more vinegar as opposed to thinning it down, although it did work .
my tank was one that had been left a umber of years dry and had surface rust/patina on it , but i must have had half a mug of sediment[rust] out when i poured the vinegar out .
i still get a bit of fine sediment out of the tank and into the carb , but i clean out the float bowl if the engine conks out on the road and am on my way again in 15mins .
to clean the tank i linered , i just used gunwash thinners [ cellulose thinners] and some m8 nuts and shook it about .
i think some people have resorted to wrapping tank in an old sleeping bag and placed it in an electric cement mixer in order to get the nuts to rattle about and clean the tank internals , and others have tried washing machines , and others chucked it in the back of an old landrover for a week or two so it got shook around ha ha .
to be honest the paint job is not the major concern as that can be done again quite easily , although at an expense .
you could get someone to use tinmans solder to solder it or to lead fill the tank where it is holed but obviously it will need heat for this and may need to remove the paint etc from the area .
choice is yours really i would think , but hope you get it sorted .
http://tankcareproducts.co.uk/
i did 3 tanks , one with petseal which was ok but is more like a paint coating than an expoxy liner , although was cheap and ok for the little mower engine .
did an ariel tank using CARSWELL tank sealer , worked great but you do need to do it when it hot in the height of summer , ie at least 70degs f in order for the epoxy to run easily inside the tank .
carswell has a nice thick clear coating , it does take about half a day to do the job though and you have to prepare the tank and also rotate it in all directions , every 5mins or so in order to get the epoxy to cover the whole inside of the tank .
plug the fuel tap holes with kids modelling clay , you may need to open it out with a tap afterwards to get the thread all the way through and might have to pass a drill up the hole by hand or light drill to enlarge the hole for fuel tap and filter .
i think the tankcare products heat the epoxy up in a microwave and so it will probably be easier to use their tank sealer than many others , especially in our climate .
i cleaned another tank out using malt vinegar , it worked , but you need to leave it for a week to be honest , and shake it about , although i bought a gallon of it and the tank i did was not much more than a gallon , so it was filled with the vinegar and i added a pint of water to it as well , but could have done with more vinegar as opposed to thinning it down, although it did work .
my tank was one that had been left a umber of years dry and had surface rust/patina on it , but i must have had half a mug of sediment[rust] out when i poured the vinegar out .
i still get a bit of fine sediment out of the tank and into the carb , but i clean out the float bowl if the engine conks out on the road and am on my way again in 15mins .
to clean the tank i linered , i just used gunwash thinners [ cellulose thinners] and some m8 nuts and shook it about .
i think some people have resorted to wrapping tank in an old sleeping bag and placed it in an electric cement mixer in order to get the nuts to rattle about and clean the tank internals , and others have tried washing machines , and others chucked it in the back of an old landrover for a week or two so it got shook around ha ha .
to be honest the paint job is not the major concern as that can be done again quite easily , although at an expense .
you could get someone to use tinmans solder to solder it or to lead fill the tank where it is holed but obviously it will need heat for this and may need to remove the paint etc from the area .
choice is yours really i would think , but hope you get it sorted .
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Re: G3L 1943 Rusty and leaky fuel tank
Thanks everyone