Martin.S wrote:Looking at the spokes confirms with the parts list that the spokes are all the same - both inner and outer.
Confused
Your photo clearly shows two differing bend angles on the spokes indicating that at least those two are not identical, despite what the parts list says - are you saying you have 35 of one angle and 1 of the other? or do you have inners and outers which do not conform to the parts list?
I only have the 59 LW parts list but that details the front wheel to have two types of spoke in a 27 / 9 ratio - has your expert or the previous builder mixed up the sets?
Reply to Martin S: I hit them just about the middle of the curve. It either caused them to seat in the paint or adjust the bend, or both In any case they are straight and nicely tensioned. I have noticed wheels I build myself don't need much re tensioning after. I came to the conclusion that it is quite easy to get the wheel running true with light tension, but applying adequate tension cause runout so you have to go very slow and careful. When my son gets a new enduro bike it takes me a few runs to get them right and they don't need much attention after. In the early days he would run a new bike a couple of times without attention and we would find spokes really loose.
Stan
Thanks Stan- I would of thought a good tap all round would help ensure all is seated correctly.
Mick, I don't know if the picture has the spokes laid out with one pointing more to the camera than the other but held side by side in my hand they look pretty close, I'll know for sure when I straighten it out.
The parts list do list two sets for the 350cc front wheel but this is the rear wheel and they list only the one set of 36 spokes.
Cheers
One other thought based on personal experience - when building a wheel and finding one or more of the inner spokes is pointing in the wrong direction it is very tempting to just ease it over the rim rather than dismantle the whole wheel - could explain the bend in the left hand spoke particularly with smaller diameter rims.
Well I've rebuilt my very first wheel!
First of all I made up a "Taverner jig" ( a wooden fixture that holds both the rim and hub in the correct position for lacing).
I then spent all afternoon putting spokes in, taking them out and then putting them back in again. I finally realised that the inners and outers have to be put in first on the speedo side (for the inners I used the right angled spokes from the front wheel they are perhaps a little short but fitted the best) and finally the drum side inner spokes and then outer - I got this wrong somehow and the spokes were touching as they crossed over each other. Then nipping up each spoke in the jig to set it all in position.
I then put a 3 jaw chuck on my milling machine bed and mounted the speedo side spindle in that, this gave me the wheel mounted horizontally which was easy to work on, putting a clock(Dial Test Indicator) on the rim to get the up and down and side to side run out to with in 0.007". I then tensioned the spoke so that they rang the same note when tapped with the spanner. I had to then go over the whole procedure again as run out was reintroduced - But we got there in the end!
I even managed to put on the Mitas tyre without tyre levers - just my hands and a little washing up liquid.
Cheers
Martin
Martin, I have been putting rebuilding a set of wheels off for ages, your efforts have given me the kick up the xxxx to give a go well try again
shifter.
