My first Matchless is here!!

[ajscomboman]

The language wasn't fruity, just descriptive!!!! Only half a ton pressure, why did I bother with the 10 tonner!

I look forward to the next round of fun.

[ajsm18]

Well done Rob and Mark! Looks like I'd better find some time to try and get some fresh grease in your wheel bearings or you'll have the forks back together and no wheel!
Mark

[markwhitelock]

One positive of this lockdown is that I've managed to get out in the garage and finally work on my G80!
Today I managed to rebuild the forks, need to try and get them on the bike tomorrow. Unfortunately I failed to buy new fibre washers for the drain plugs so I can't actually fill them yet!

[markwhitelock]

Am I right in thinking that I need SAE 20 oil and that each leg takes 6 1/2 fl oz?

[SPRIDDLER]

Am I right in thinking that I need SAE 20 oil and that each leg takes 6 1/2 fl oz?

Correct, and just a reminder (granny, eggs, so forth) it's studs in the slider for the brake torque arm, not bolts.
When I couldn't get 20 grade oil I was advised that I could mix two grades to achieve 20 e.g. 50% 10 grade and 50% 30 grade. I don't know if that's correct but I had no problem with te suspension.
There are various opinions about whether the torque arm is fitted on the studs before or after the mudguard bracket. If you fit the torque arm first and then the mudguard bracket you may find that it displaces the centre line of the mudguard off-centre to the tyre. In that case it is (debated that it is) o.k. to fit the mudguard bracket first, against the slider, and before the torque arm bracket.
Some feel that with the torque arm next to the slider there is less shearing force on the studs when braking...……..

[markwhitelock]

Thanks Spriddler, I hadn't even thought about which leg was on which side yet! Thanks for the tip!! The seems to be SAE 20 oil available on eBay so I will grab some of that.

[Duncan]

Hi Mark, If you have any left you can also put the SAE20 in the primary drive chain case (I do, but other oil/ATF options are available/debated)

[markwhitelock]

Brilliant, thanks Duncan, I only bought a litre so will see how far it goes.

[Plugsnpoints]

Am I right in thinking that I need SAE 20 oil and that each leg takes 6 1/2 fl oz?

Correct, and just a reminder (granny, eggs, so forth) it's studs in the slider for the brake torque arm, not bolts.
When I couldn't get 20 grade oil I was advised that I could mix two grades to achieve 20 e.g. 50% 10 grade and 50% 30 grade. I don't know if that's correct but I had no problem with te suspension.
There are various opinions about whether the torque arm is fitted on the studs before or after the mudguard bracket. If you fit the torque arm first and then the mudguard bracket you may find that it displaces the centre line of the mudguard off-centre to the tyre. In that case it is (debated that it is) o.k. to fit the mudguard bracket first, against the slider, and before the torque arm bracket.
Some feel that with the torque arm next to the slider there is less shearing force on the studs when braking...……..

As ever Mr Sprid comes to the rescue!

I am about to reassemble my machine after a few months of being in bits. Like Mark, I have rebuilt my forks (new bushes and seals etc.) including the sliders and getting the seal holders rechromed. They look all shiny.

This week I hoped to put the forks back in the frame.

I keep an eye on these threads (BSC, BSF and the forum ones) as there's loads of helpful advice.

Last night I spotted this.

I naturally assumed that the mudguard and torque arm was attached with bolts, as that's how I found it.

Thanks Neville, your a star. My studs have duly been ordered from the ever pleasant and efficient Steven Surbey Esq.

This self isolation is expensive...

Andy

[markwhitelock]

Gents, what am I doing wrong here...?!



I can't get the fork to pass through the lower clamp, now I can't get it back out again either!!!