to powder coat or not ?
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to powder coat or not ?
Now that I have my 18S in parts I'm considering what to do with the frame and other black components. the black paint looks okay apart from a few areas that have chipped off. I have the option to get the components blasted/acid dipped and powder coated for about 200 USD. Has anyone had bad experiences with powder coating ? Is there a special shade of black that is closes to original ? Priming first is also an option
1954 AJS 18S Cyprus export (frame decode says 1954 but many components match a 1955).
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
Hi
I always powder coat the frames of my restorations - no adverse experience to date. My coater blasts in house and I select a three layer finish - primer/corrosion inhibitor, colour coat, clear coat.
Get them to mask the frame number if the stamping is not too good and keep on their good side by cleaning all of the grease out of the headstock and surrounding tubes.
As an aside I powder coated the bodywork of my current restoration to good effect - see my post under Garage Projects
Regards Mick
I always powder coat the frames of my restorations - no adverse experience to date. My coater blasts in house and I select a three layer finish - primer/corrosion inhibitor, colour coat, clear coat.
Get them to mask the frame number if the stamping is not too good and keep on their good side by cleaning all of the grease out of the headstock and surrounding tubes.
As an aside I powder coated the bodywork of my current restoration to good effect - see my post under Garage Projects
Regards Mick
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
I am not a great fan of powder coat on frames - if the surface cracks or gets chipped them moisture can creep underneath and rust out big patches. I use POR15 chassis black or gloss black top coat so it is possible to touch in any damage at a later date - not sure if it is a good idea to paint over chips in powder coat.
Although POR15 can go straight over bare metal, I have found it best to use the POR15 anti rust undercoat. The paint can be a little thick and difficult to apply so I sit the tin in a bath of hot water first - it helps to warm the job up slightly too.
Others have used powder coat and have no problems with it - very much a personal choice.
Jim
Although POR15 can go straight over bare metal, I have found it best to use the POR15 anti rust undercoat. The paint can be a little thick and difficult to apply so I sit the tin in a bath of hot water first - it helps to warm the job up slightly too.
Others have used powder coat and have no problems with it - very much a personal choice.
Jim
Too old to Rock and Roll but too young to die.
1952 G80 rigid, 1960 G12 DL / Watsonian Monza, 1954 G80S.
1952 G80 rigid, 1960 G12 DL / Watsonian Monza, 1954 G80S.
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
My choice is not to use powder coat, two pack paint suits me fine.
Colin
Colin
only dead fish go with the flow
- spookefoote1956
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
Powder coat or Tekaloid
Hail Joe Lucas ............ Prince of Darkness!
All my bikes are original........ to me!
"Creativity is your intelligence having fun" Albert Einstein
All my bikes are original........ to me!
"Creativity is your intelligence having fun" Albert Einstein
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
What did the factory use back in the day? Enamel?
- Pharisee
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
Having recently moved up to south Lincolnshire, I had to find somewhere reasonably local to do the powder coating. I found a company in Thetford that looked promising and went to see them. They had a lot of experience with motorcycle parts so I left my frame with them. They did a lovely job on it... first a high zinc primer and then a high gloss black top coat. Very happy with the results.
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I'm from the Fens.... Gimme six.
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
I read somewhere that AMC bought the Sunbeam Motorcycle Company largely to benefit from their expertise in the black stove enamelling process.MalcW wrote:What did the factory use back in the day? Enamel?
Here's an extract from the book 'Working for AMC' which can be accessed here:
http://archives.jampot.dk/general/Working_for_AMC.pdf
It says.......
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Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
- cfaber
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
Depending on the current paint condition you may be able to revive it with polish. See my preservation thread in the G80/18S forum
Fix it until it's broken!
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
Otherwise how will
anything get done?
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Re: to powder coat or not ?
I have decided to do the following :
1) Garnet-blast the black stuff
2) hire a specialist with a hammer to knock out the dents on the tinware
3) powder coat with epoxy primer
4) wrap carefully with a dessicant and put the parts into plastic boxes
This should keep the components rust free for 12-15 months. I didnt realise that primer is porous and will allow rust underneath ! Apparently the epoxy primer does a better job of sealing and is tougher
When its time for rebuild, I will get the epoxy primer sanded (apparently it either needs an immediate top coat while slightly soft or else sanding) and can then make the decision on how to do top coat i.e. brush or spray or powder.
Based on the hidden damage I'm uncovering it is turning out to have been very wise to take it all back to bare metal
1) Garnet-blast the black stuff
2) hire a specialist with a hammer to knock out the dents on the tinware
3) powder coat with epoxy primer
4) wrap carefully with a dessicant and put the parts into plastic boxes
This should keep the components rust free for 12-15 months. I didnt realise that primer is porous and will allow rust underneath ! Apparently the epoxy primer does a better job of sealing and is tougher
When its time for rebuild, I will get the epoxy primer sanded (apparently it either needs an immediate top coat while slightly soft or else sanding) and can then make the decision on how to do top coat i.e. brush or spray or powder.
Based on the hidden damage I'm uncovering it is turning out to have been very wise to take it all back to bare metal
1954 AJS 18S Cyprus export (frame decode says 1954 but many components match a 1955).