Heavyweight rear mudguard wiring routes?

[bitza]

On my g9 I routed th rear light feed from the light unit through the grommet in rear mudguard there should be a clamp it fits on one of the bolts holding the number plate mount housing this clamps the cable, then routed the feed up inside the rear mudguard section and made the
Connection to the loom under the rear lifting arm area, then you can pick up the stop lamp feed coming up the rear frame rail from the
Brake light switch. Just a suggestion how I did mine.

[Mick D]

there should be a clamp it fits on one of the bolts holding the number plate mount housing this clamps the cable

Hi

I think that's this one:

Rear Light Cable Clip.png

Regards Mick

[bitza]

Spot on Mick, it's flat with a hole should have a radius at other end to go over the wiring, I slit a small length of tubing and slipped it round the wiring secured by tape, stop it chafing due to vibrations when riding the bike.

[56G80S]

Good pic, Mick.

I'm a naughty boy and found getting the bolts connected to fit the number plate bit onto the detachable section of the mudguard. I cut a hole behind the numberplate!

I too take the feed to the underside of the mudguard at the grab handle.

Johnhny B

[raffles]

I had the same problem 37 years ago and did a similar job to spriddler but I used 1/4 bore copper pipe
followed the center line of the mudgaurd soldering tags as required to bolt it on. Its still on the bike
never been a problem
Tony

[Jdraper]

A further complication is that the rear section on my bike is a hinged unit (not correct for a '55), making the wiring route & slack important if the hinged facility is ever used.

It just goes on, with one thing affecting others until everything is back to standard - if you can ever get there! The alternative is to go feral and just make the bits you have, work together.

Jeremy

[SPRIDDLER]

A further complication is that the rear section on my bike is a hinged unit (not correct for a '55), making the wiring route & slack important if the hinged facility is ever used.

The beauty of my hose arrangement on my '54 'guard (with a detachable end section) is that I have slack/excess wires coiled and tucked under the front of the seat. I can ease the slack through the hose as I detach the end piece and then retrieve it back to under the seat as I refit the end piece. I have short wires with bullet connectors at the number plate/lamp unit so that I can take away the end section completely to remove the wheel.

[Expat]

[raffles]

Sorry forgot to say my copper tube is in two halves with snap connectors on the join
Tony

[Jdraper]

Rummaging in my box of bits I found my answer to fitting the rear wiring loom with missing tabs on the mudguard. 'P' clips, widely used on cars etc for holding brake pipes and wiring looms. These are stainless, with 1/4" fixing holes which match the bolts for the toolbox and grab rail. I also found the entry hole half way between the lower fixings and the bolt for the bridge mounting.

Maybe when the guard is repainted I can add the welded tabs back, but until then, sorted.

Jeremy