Gearbox ID
-
- Posts: 857
- Joined: Tue May 27, 2008 2:19 pm
- Location: SURREY UK
Re: Gearbox ID
I don't know why left it on really. I have loosened the nut. They can be a bug**r and it was. If I take it off now the prospective buyer will no doubt complain when he receives it.
There's a lesson here: don't take your pictures in bright sunlight. Its quite a clean gearbox really !
Stan
There's a lesson here: don't take your pictures in bright sunlight. Its quite a clean gearbox really !
Stan
-
- Member
- Posts: 3534
- Joined: Sun Jan 01, 1995 12:00 am
- Location: ESSEX UK
Re: Gearbox ID
I hope it made a good price as I paid far to much for a 1956 on last week and from a Club member but on eBayStan Palmer wrote:I don't know why left it on really. I have loosened the nut. They can be a bug**r and it was. If I take it off now the prospective buyer will no doubt complain when he receives it.
There's a lesson here: don't take your pictures in bright sunlight. Its quite a clean gearbox really !
Stan
Last edited by G15 Roy on Mon Sep 28, 2020 6:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Roy
-
- Member
- Posts: 8559
- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 1:00 am
- Location: WEST SUSSEX UK
Re: Gearbox ID
I've never had to do it but you could remove the operating mechanism at the k/start end and poke it out with a piece of wire.Rosy wrote:If I get a one piece rod, how do I get the other end of the two piece rod out?
I have a 3/16" dia magnet on the end of an extending telescopic rod (like a car aerial) which would draw it out from the clutch basket end.
There's a vague possibility that a blob of BluTak on the end might stick to the (too oily?) short piece but I'd probably end up with the BluTak stuck up the shaft.
I expect someone will post an obvious way to do it............
Last edited by SPRIDDLER on Mon Sep 28, 2020 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
- Rosy
- Posts: 173
- Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2019 5:50 pm
- Location: Bristol & East Devon
Re: Gearbox ID
Yes it does.Stan Palmer wrote:Have some convenient photos as I am selling one. Does your gearbox look like this ? Hopefully without the clapped out sprocket.
- Rosy
- Posts: 173
- Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2019 5:50 pm
- Location: Bristol & East Devon
Re: Gearbox ID
I was thinking the same magnet on the end of the new rod, as long as nothing drops off the other end like the ball bearing if there is one!!SPRIDDLER wrote:I've never had to do it but you could remove the operating mechanism at the k/start end and poke it out with a piece of wire.Rosy wrote:If I get a one piece rod, how do I get the other end of the two piece rod out?
I have a 3/16" dia magnet on the end of an extending telescopic rod (like a car aerial) which would draw it out from the clutch basket end.
There's a vague possibility that a blob of BluTak on the end might stick to the (too oily?) short piece but I'd probably end up with the BluTak stuck up the shaft.
I expect someone will post an obvious way to do it............
- Rosy
- Posts: 173
- Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2019 5:50 pm
- Location: Bristol & East Devon
Re: Gearbox ID
I will photo it tomorrow.G15 Roy wrote:May Be its not G32 and its GB C52? Photo is bestRosy wrote:53 MS. Could someone Identify the year of my gearbox so I can find the right spares list? I'm checking a 53 spares list but it seems different. It's marked G32-C52-F620 and within 4 corner brackets 937. it has a two piece thrust rod (what size should the midway bearing be?) Both bearings midway and thrust plate are 3/16. It's a 4 plate clutch which appears to be in a 5 plate basket, would it matter to fit an extra pair of plates? it's a 4 springs clutch. Thank you.
-
- Member
- Posts: 8559
- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 1:00 am
- Location: WEST SUSSEX UK
Re: Gearbox ID
I don't think that would work as I've just tried it in the shed with a piece of mild steel rod and a girt great magnet saved from a discarded tank bag. Nothing.Rosy wrote:
I was thinking the same magnet on the end of the new rod, as long as nothing drops off the other end like the ball bearing if there is one!!
It might be possible to magnetise the end of a rod by stroking it with a strong magnet. I've done that on screwdrivers.
Here's a tech drawing of the 'box if it helps visualise what to do.
http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Tra ... rawing.pdf
On my laptop to avoid getting a crick in my neck I can rotate the drawing using this button......
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
- Group Leader
- Member
- Posts: 538
- Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:51 pm
- Location: Herts UK
Re: Gearbox ID
You can get some very small cylindrical rare earth magnets (very cheaply)that will wedge quite nicely into the end of various sizes of B&Q ali tube. I've made a couple including one using 5mm(?) OD tube.
Chose a size to suit .....
https://www.first4magnets.com/circular- ... 6|ps_1_645
(this is an example of the sort of thing I was referring to, not an advert for this particular supplier .....)
Very useful tool, ideal for picking up nuts that have dropped down into hard to get to little gaps and no doubt rescuing clutch rods etc As the poles of the magnet are on the flat ends and all but the end face of the magnet is buried in the ali tube that helps to stop the "stick" sticking too vigorously to steel parts at the sides (if you see what I mean!)
Alan
Chose a size to suit .....
https://www.first4magnets.com/circular- ... 6|ps_1_645
(this is an example of the sort of thing I was referring to, not an advert for this particular supplier .....)
Very useful tool, ideal for picking up nuts that have dropped down into hard to get to little gaps and no doubt rescuing clutch rods etc As the poles of the magnet are on the flat ends and all but the end face of the magnet is buried in the ali tube that helps to stop the "stick" sticking too vigorously to steel parts at the sides (if you see what I mean!)
Alan
1953 AJS 16MS, 1939 BSA 250 and a 1/3 scale Sopwith Triplane but that's another story .....
-
- Member
- Posts: 196
- Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2011 1:29 pm
- Location: CAMBRIDGESHIRE UK
Re: Gearbox ID
Would it be best to remove the outer gearbox cover at this point so you can assess the clutch operating mechanism for excess wear and the condition of the ball bearing? Then the other part of the rod can easily be pushed through.
I had an issue with the rod length and found out the operating dowel had worn to a concave end, having replaced the dowel it should be square in profile.
I had an issue with the rod length and found out the operating dowel had worn to a concave end, having replaced the dowel it should be square in profile.
- Pharisee
- Member
- Posts: 1128
- Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2016 8:51 pm
- Location: Lincolnshire UK
- Contact:
Re: Gearbox ID
I had a similar problem. A previous owner had apparently omitted the steel ball. When I bought the bike, the ball had been replaced and a longer, non-standard, pushrod fitted. I replaced all three components.adz25 wrote:
I had an issue with the rod length and found out the operating dowel had worn to a concave end, having replaced the dowel it should be square in profile.
I'm from the Fens.... Gimme six.