Iron Head wrote: Funny you mention Marmite Spriddler my wife said this morning that she is amazed what I can scrape out of the jar....
That's because she can't get the over-tightened lid off.
I'm not especially mean either but in order not to waste any I shake hot water in my near empty jar then drink the mixture.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Back on topic, I have two of the push through Norbar wrenches though both old, one mine and the other Dad's. I recently invested in a new easier to read and higher torque wrench (did the Rover wheel bearings with it, had to stand on the thing to get it to click). Plus a 3/8 drive, also easier to read, low torque wrench for working on the Yamaha where the values are often quite low and I read on the XJRider website that the metal doesn't take kindly to too much stress.
Lockdown aside, you're not far away really and when things improve you're welcome to my old one and I'll keep Dad's.
No value has been found for the pinion nut torque setting. Based on general torque tables, a setting of 30 ft*lb (41 N*m) would seem appropriate, however the shaft is hardened and a reduced torque setting of 20 ft*lb (27 N*m) is suggested.
Values are valid for lubricated threads only.
The OP mentions 16 ft*lb, is this a value specified by the factory?
Hello Knut. I was following Dick Casey's excellent tutorial on timing cams on You Tube and it mentions 16 ft/lbs or 20 Nm (from memory). Dick stated a clean dry taper and threads. I believe lubricating threads and applying torque wrench settings may introduce unnecessary variables from what I have read.
Did something similar on my car which has three eared spinners to hold the wheels on, RH thread on one side & LH on the other.. Spent ages wellying the spinner with a copper mallet before realising I was hitting the wrong side of the spinner tab, even though they are marked...
Iron Head wrote:Hello Knut. I was following Dick Casey's excellent tutorial on timing cams on You Tube and it mentions 16 ft/lbs or 20 Nm (from memory). Dick stated a clean dry taper and threads. I believe lubricating threads and applying torque wrench settings may introduce unnecessary variables from what I have read.
Wrong. You should watch again. Dick stated the necessity of a clean dry taper, NOT the threads. In the video Dick applies Loctite 243 to the threads, which has the effect of lubrication.
When applying a torque, what you want as readout is the torque needed to extend the shaft, not the value to overcome rust and rough threads. Therefore, the most truthful readout is by application of lubrication.
The following article at Quora shows the difference in torque values for lubed vs. dry bolted connections. As can be seen, lubed connection toque values are considerably lower than dry connection values.
In other words, applying a specified torque at a dry bolted connection introduces a gross error.
As for the 16 ft*lb (20 N*m) value, Dick is concerned about the pinion as such, not the threads. The value is arbitrary and based on Dick's assessment. Personally I would have no fear of applying 20 ft*lb.
I have never used a torque on this nut, having put several singles together, I used a large ring spanner as tight as I could get it. No problems as being a left hand thread it doesn't work loose.
mdt-son wrote:In other words, applying a specified torque at a dry bolted connection introduces a gross error.
Hi
Sorry to be pedantic but the conditions under which torque is applied should be specified - applying torque without complying with these conditions introduces gross error - it works both ways .
mdt-son wrote:When applying a torque, what you want as readout is the torque needed to extend the shaft, not the value to overcome rust and rough threads. Therefore, the most truthful readout is by application of lubrication.
Torque figures always assume threads are clean and in good condition - lubrication is not a substitute for this .
That's (barely) edible Wellseal aint it? 
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