My '71 Bonneville has been upgraded with a 3 phase, 180w alternator and a Podtronics regulator. That has been faultless in the time that I've had the bike. Mt '68 Tiger 90 has the standard single phase alternator and I replaced the zener diode stuff with a cheap solid state regulator which I bought from a supplier on eBay. I thought that was working fine until I retro-fitted some indicators with an electronic flasher unit. The flasher unit worked fine until I started the engine. Then it went completely haywire and flashed completely randomly. I check the battery voltage with the engine running and was surprised to see it fluctuating between 12 and 18v. I replaced the regulator with a second hand one from a Suzuki, and it's worked fine ever since.Mick D wrote:
On an associated issue, has anyone any horror stories of using the (very), cheap universal motorcycle regulators available? Is a Podtronics / DVR etc. really 12 times better?
Regards Mick
6 volt Solid State voltage Regulator.
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Pharisee
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Re: 6 volt Solid State voltage Regulator.
I'm from the Fens.... Gimme six.
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ianw1
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Re: 6 volt Solid State voltage Regulator.
many thanks for all the replies.
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56G80S
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Re: 6 volt Solid State voltage Regulator.
You've probably had enough, but I've been using an A-RegII and it's been fine.
Johnny B
Johnny B
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Re: 6 volt Solid State voltage Regulator.
And another vote for the DVR2 from me .....
Alan
Alan
1953 AJS 16MS, 1939 BSA 250 and a 1/3 scale Sopwith Triplane but that's another story ..... 
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Triumph-Legend
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Re: 6 volt Solid State voltage Regulator.
Nice pictures.
I bought a bike from the club a few years back that had the same problem. The bike looked fine and a short road test seemed OK. But the Zener diode had failed and toasted the wiring loom and battery. Also chucking battery acid onto the area around the battery mounting. This did not show up at the time of purchase as the bike had both alternator charging for the lights and a magneto ignition. Somebody had fitted a replacement battery to get the lights working.
The bike required a new loom and new rectifier / regulator unit, (DVR), this did away with the need for the Zener diode completely.
The bike also had a split in the petrol tank caused by an incorrect cylinder head steady clamp bolt rubbing agains the underside frame tunnel of the tank.
Again this only became apparent when the tank was half filled with petrol which the came out as flood of fuel all over the engine and garage floor. the tank was also leaking at the front welded seam.
So, tank repair and repaint required. That's a whole lot more unexperted expense and hassle.
Lessons have been learnt. Now I don't by any machine that is not being sold by the registered owner. Also I want the bike owner to have some knowledge of the machines true condition and to be honest in their description. The machine, unless otherwise agreed should be complete and not missing any hard to replace parts. I don't worry about faults that I am aware of as these are to be expected on any machine of 40 or 50+ years of age. Any faults can be fixed, but finding some parts can be a real pain. Not too bothered about having matching numbers so long as major parts are of the correct era. There are plenty of bikes around with Monoblock carbs replacing the incendry device Pre-Monoblock type. It is a senible mod and works well. Replacing a pre 45 chain case with a 54 on version, maybe not for the purist, by at least the later case allows easy acces to the clutch. You seem what I mean, some mods work fine.
Don't even ask about an early comp bike bought from Kettering. A complete and utter dog in need of a full head to toe rebuild.
I bought a bike from the club a few years back that had the same problem. The bike looked fine and a short road test seemed OK. But the Zener diode had failed and toasted the wiring loom and battery. Also chucking battery acid onto the area around the battery mounting. This did not show up at the time of purchase as the bike had both alternator charging for the lights and a magneto ignition. Somebody had fitted a replacement battery to get the lights working.
The bike required a new loom and new rectifier / regulator unit, (DVR), this did away with the need for the Zener diode completely.
The bike also had a split in the petrol tank caused by an incorrect cylinder head steady clamp bolt rubbing agains the underside frame tunnel of the tank.
Again this only became apparent when the tank was half filled with petrol which the came out as flood of fuel all over the engine and garage floor. the tank was also leaking at the front welded seam.
So, tank repair and repaint required. That's a whole lot more unexperted expense and hassle.
Lessons have been learnt. Now I don't by any machine that is not being sold by the registered owner. Also I want the bike owner to have some knowledge of the machines true condition and to be honest in their description. The machine, unless otherwise agreed should be complete and not missing any hard to replace parts. I don't worry about faults that I am aware of as these are to be expected on any machine of 40 or 50+ years of age. Any faults can be fixed, but finding some parts can be a real pain. Not too bothered about having matching numbers so long as major parts are of the correct era. There are plenty of bikes around with Monoblock carbs replacing the incendry device Pre-Monoblock type. It is a senible mod and works well. Replacing a pre 45 chain case with a 54 on version, maybe not for the purist, by at least the later case allows easy acces to the clutch. You seem what I mean, some mods work fine.
Don't even ask about an early comp bike bought from Kettering. A complete and utter dog in need of a full head to toe rebuild.