Blowing Bulbs

[JTU709]

A few weeks after I bought my Model 14 I noticed that the headlight bulb was flickering when the engine was running, shortly after, it blew. I replaced the bulb but the flickering is still there. I don't want to blow another bulb so I'm looking for advice on what the problem might be. Can anyone help?
JT

[Rob Harknett]

If it is only the headlamp bulb that is flickering, It must surely be a bad connection in the headlamp wiring, so check the wiring to and from the switch to dip switch, then two wires from dip switch to dip and main beam on the bulb holder. Most of these wires are held by screws that can come loose. Other terminals can oxidise. I assume your battery is charged up OK. Do the lights still flicker when the engine is not running?

[Ozmadman]

A few weeks after I bought my Model 14 I noticed that the headlight bulb was flickering when the engine was running, shortly after, it blew. I replaced the bulb but the flickering is still there. I don't want to blow another bulb so I'm looking for advice on what the problem might be. Can anyone help?
JT

Common problem on this model. Get rid of the resistor (usually just a wire) in the headlamp and the rectifier (either a large flat metal thing (Zener diode) or a small ally box resembling a car flasher unit) under the seat. Then fit an AREG SIX (£34.95) presuming it is still 6 volt? by Paul Goff http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm. This is easy to fit and requires a bit of minor rewiring (basically joining two of the alternator wires together) excellent mod,trouble free and no more blown bulbs and boiled batteries

[Expat]

That'll do it, good advice from Paul. Fit led bulbs then problem is over!

[Janet]

I'm reluctant to contradict the expert but if it were me, before spending money and altering stuff I'd look for the simple things first. THe workshop manual says this

BULBS BLOWING
This can only be due an open circuit in the battery line and the fault should be located before new bulbs are fitted. To locate the fault, check in the following order:-
(1) Bad earth connection on battery positive lead.
(2) Loose or corroded battery terminals.
(3) Loose or dirty contact in the four-hole two-way connector which is interposed in the battery negative lead. (Brown wire)
(4) Loose ammeter connection.
(5) Battery dry due to electrolyte evaporating.

Having recently ridden through the night with almost no headlight, I appear to have cured the fault by checking and cleaning connectors on the wiring and replacing two that were suspect ie they seemed to be a bit 'wobbly' on the wires. It doesn't matter how good the components are if the wiring between them isn't making good connections.

[dave16mct]

If you did decide on a new Reg/rec you can get the same AReg6 unit straight from Al Osborn at AO services for the same price, but VAT and delivery included. So you save about £5 and he sends it by return post.
http://aoservices.co.uk/prices.pdf


Dave.

[Rob Harknett]

I'm reluctant to contradict the expert but if it were me, before spending money and altering stuff I'd look for the simple things first. THe workshop manual says this

BULBS BLOWING
This can only be due an open circuit in the battery line and the fault should be located before new bulbs are fitted. To locate the fault, check in the following order:-
(1) Bad earth connection on battery positive lead.
(2) Loose or corroded battery terminals.
(3) Loose or dirty contact in the four-hole two-way connector which is interposed in the battery negative lead. (Brown wire)
(4) Loose ammeter connection.
(5) Battery dry due to electrolyte evaporating.

Having recently ridden through the night with almost no headlight, I appear to have cured the fault by checking and cleaning connectors on the wiring and replacing two that were suspect ie they seemed to be a bit 'wobbly' on the wires. It doesn't matter how good the components are if the wiring between them isn't making good connections.

Well Janet seems to have proved what I first suggested you try. It also cost nothing.
You could dump or replace something spending £30 + to cure the problem. In so doing, fixing a bad connection that was the real problem only

[Janet]

Well Janet seems to have proved what I first suggested you try. It also cost nothing.
You could dump or replace something spending £30 + to cure the problem. In so doing, fixing a bad connection that was the real problem only

The good thing is that, even if it isn't the cause of the particular fault, finding and sorting some other defect needs doing anyway, so the effort isn't wasted.

[clive]

Worth checking too that the bulb holder is retaining the bulb firmly. Had a torpedo sidelight blow bulbs regularly until I just nipped up the holder slightly.

[JTU709]

Thanks to everyone for the responses. I took Janet's advice and followed the steps she listed from the workshop manual. I ended up cleaning every connection I could find in the wiring harness and re-soldering two wires that were hanging on by a strand. I found that in one of three cells the in the battery the electrolyte only reaches half way up the plates, it's a 6v 6ah unit that only reached 1.4v when I checked the voltage. I'm going to replace it before I check the lights again.

thanks again for your advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

JT