G2 Lightweight Control Levers

[billandritapye]

I have a 1959 G2 which was recommisioned by the previous owner in 2000. Nothing about the bike is lightweight except the name and I find the clutch operation pretty heavy despite a new cable. I have read elswhere, that the incorrect distance between the cable nipple and the pivot on the control lever can make a significant difference. Does anyone know the correct measurement? I dont know wether the levers were replaced at some point. Peewit"

[SPRIDDLER]

Welcome!

I posted this recently............

Correctly adjusted the clutch operation shouldn't be very heavy at all.
Ensure you have a h/bar fitting with 7/8" nipple centre to pivot.
Ensure that the cable has an easy run (fit the cable externally from the bike to test, i.e. flopping outside the tank, frame etc and check for ease of action. you'll probably be surprised how light the action becomes).
Ensure that the clutch springs haven't been over-tightened which will require much effort to separate the plates. The spring nuts only need to be screwed in enough to prevent clutch slip.
Make sure that the clutch release rod is free inside the mainshaft and not sticky with old congealed oil or grease.
Use a good quality heavy cable. Many cheap autojumble pattern ones are flimsy with a loosely wound spiral outer, not much heavier than a throttle cable. This means that when you operate the lever the spiral outer compresses/squashes, binding on the inner, allowing the cable to distort, and can also produce a spongey feel (likewise front brake cables).
HTH

[billandritapye]

Thanks, will check all the points mentioned. For starters, I think the nipple centre to pivot measures one inch!

[Rob Harknett]

Ages ago, a group of us chatted about this problem at a section meeting.
Somewhere out there, levers can be found where the distance between pivot screw and nipple centre is 1 "
The extra leverage this gives makes it easier.
Another trick for people with small hands, is to put a rear chain link on the lever, so its held open a bit,
making sure you adjust the cable to suit, this helps give your fingers a better grip.
You then also have a spare rear chain link. Do this only after checking everything Spriddler refers to.

[paul knapp]

Increasing the distance from the fulcrum to cable, E.G., going from 7/8"to 1" gives MORE cable travel, but at the expence of MORE effort needed.
AMC had 7/8"pin to cable nipple, as did many other makes. Triumph used 1" distance levers (probably because the riders had more muscles...LOL)

[rex.webb]

WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ROB now your going the wrong way ?

Somewhere out there, levers can be found where the distance between pivot screw and nipple centre is 1 "
The extra leverage this gives makes it easier.
NO andd NO again , 1" inch centres make it HARDER to pull in .
It,s the 7/8" Centre ones that should be fitted .
RIDE with CARE and LIVE LONG to ENJOY your bike,s and Scooter,s .
Insured with Peter James.