Brake anchor arm bolts

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 11:15 pm

A stud, properly fitted and of the correct length will use the whole depth of the thread in the slider, a bolt cannot be allowed to bottom and will therefore not use all the available thread. In theory, and with lubricant on the outer end of the stud, say copper grease, the stud will not come out, meaning less wear on these vital thtreads

RogerJ · Post by **RogerJ** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:35 am

quote: If you dont use bolts its a devil of a job to remove the mudguard.

There must be a knack to this as even with the correct combination of studs and bolts I had a hell of a job getting the mudguard back in place (on a 1954 18S) - the only way I could do it was to remove the studs as well. (Removal was OK as I was removing the forks anyway). Oh what hours of fun!

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 10:41 am

I find that I can squeeze the mudguard enough to clear the studs.

paul knapp · Post by **paul knapp** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:54 pm

Over an 8 year period, from '50 to '57, (I didn't research outside this time frame), the factory called for 2 off 1-1/32" long X 5/16 dia.22tpi studs in the L/H slider (also clamps the brake torque arm with 26tpi hex nuts)
The R/H side calls up 2 off 1/2"long x 5/16"22tpi hex bolts, no doubt for ease of fitment.

ajscomboman · Post by **ajscomboman** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 2:28 pm

That's exactly the setup that i have on both the outfits and the lightweight, 1958-61 period. Thanks for confirming that Paul.

TommoT · Post by **TommoT** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:05 pm

quote:
Over an 8 year period, from '50 to '57, (I didn't research outside this time frame), the factory called for 2 off 1-1/32" long X 5/16 dia.22tpi studs in the L/H slider (also clamps the brake torque arm with 26tpi hex nuts)
The R/H side calls up 2 off 1/2"long x 5/16"22tpi hex bolts, no doubt for ease of fitment.

Thanks Paul and others suggesting this solution. Sounds like the perfect compromise between maximum security and convenience!Edited by - TommoT on 15 Feb 2007 11:05:37 PM

paul knapp · Post by **paul knapp** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 3:01 am

WELL!!!.........'stone the crows 'n starve the flamin' lizards' !!!!!!!
I'm good for somethin' at last...

...just a thought,.... when fitting the guard bridge over the studs, (on the L.H.side) rotate the R.H. slider around so to give more guard clearance so as to not foul against the bridge boss.

...

itma · Post by **itma** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 9:16 am

another take on this is that constant remval and replacing of the bolts wears the thread, amateur mechanics being what they are and always were, its odds on the thread will get stripped , crossed or mangled,
This is less likely to happen with the stud set- up, especially on the brake stay side.
Just some one applying common sense at Plumstead?
Turning the slider around is what I always did, would have thoght it obvious?

basketcase · Post by **basketcase** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 9:52 am

Well, I only asked what I thought was a simple question and look where that got me!!!

You are right Ken in what you say about amateur mechanics which is why I was, in a previous life a butcher/slaughterman.

Thanks everyone, all I need now is find a supplier for the helicoil kit that I will need!

RogerJ · Post by **RogerJ** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:53 pm

Nigel, try www.uni-thread.com (or 01803 559595) - they seem competitively priced and very efficient.