Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Information relating to the Matchless G2 or AJS Model 14 250cc Lightweight
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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby 1923richard » Thu Mar 10, 2011 7:41 pm

Does any body know how to remove the automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism?
I am trying to put a electronic ignition on my Matchless G2 CSR and therefore has to make space.
Richard

Edited by - 1923richard on 10 Mar 2011 9:11:11 PM
Richard

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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby Janet » Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:28 pm

There is an extractor that screws into the hole the retaining bolt fits in, thus drawing off the unit. You can prise it off with a couple of tyre levers but I wouldn't recommend it.
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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby 1923richard » Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:55 pm

Thank you - I realy dont know if I should do it. I wanted to put in a electronic ignition (Sparx) but I can see that the rod is 10 mm. The hole of the new rotor is only 7 mm. So I think that I will return it to the seller.
Richard

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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby SideValve » Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:19 pm

I've just sold my G2 with it running on fixed ignition (ran well but no scope for a half-heart kick start.). If you do replace it with electric I'm sure the buyer of my bike would be happy to take the old unit off your hands.

I'm not sure how your new unit is meant to be fixed but it must be possible to fit a 10mm shaft instead of the old auto advance.
Peter W

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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby 1923richard » Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:33 pm

Thanks but I now think that I will keep the old system. I have put back the old auto advance. The shaft is 10 mm and the electronic rotor will only fit on a 7 mm shaft.
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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby Don Madden » Fri Mar 11, 2011 12:00 am

10mm?, 7mm? I have never seen metric threads, other than the metric based BA on any AMC machine. It is important to use the correct hardware & tools to avoid damage. Cheers, Don.

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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby Don Madden » Fri Mar 11, 2011 1:49 am

I am using a Pazon, made in New Zealand, unit on my BitSA 441. It cured the starting problem & has an advance curve that matches the original, important for big singles that like to plod along at low RPM. It can be set up for singles, twins, CW or CCW, came with excellent instructions & every little bit needed for a neat installation. It also uses a stock coil & can be wired for + or - earth. I think 12v system is required but is not fussy about low voltage & will spark without a battery if a capacitor is fitted. The price was very good, better than the others I looked at. Cheers, Don.

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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby 1923richard » Fri Mar 11, 2011 5:59 am

Hi Don
Thanks for advise. It is not the mm thread I am referring to. It is the diameter of the rod. The thread is of course BSC 26tpi.
I will try to find the Pazon.
Richard

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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby Dick H » Fri Mar 11, 2011 8:35 am

Hi Richard
I think you'll find that Paul Goff is the best man for Pazon units. Very helpful too. Email him at NORBSA@aol.com.
Regards - Dick.

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Removing the Automatic Ignition Advance Mechanism

Postby 1923richard » Fri Mar 11, 2011 2:31 pm

Thanks Dick. I found the supplier on the internet. NewZeland. What I also found in my hidings was a Boyer Power Box - I will try to put that on. I remember now someone told me that using that Power Box (If it works) I can avoid using Rectifier and other small bits that is in the original wiring diagram.
Richard
Richard

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