Getting her running
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: EAST SUSSEX UK
Getting her running
Hi,
I've just got my 250 CSR running at long last... However, the noise is something else (have ordered new silencer this week) and it won't tick over.
I have screwed the throttle screw all the way in on the carb but it doesn't seem to be doing much at all. The carb is set up correctly on all other fronts. It runs ok, albeit rather loud, when I hold the throttle open but as soon as I close it the engine stops running.
It will sometimes spit out of the carb when starting too.
Any ideas? I have played around with the timing a little and it seems to be the same whether advanced or retarded from tdc.
If I need a new throttle screw where can I get one from?
Also I am searching for a chain guard, any ideas when I might be able to find one before I fabricate my own?
Regards
Robin
I've just got my 250 CSR running at long last... However, the noise is something else (have ordered new silencer this week) and it won't tick over.
I have screwed the throttle screw all the way in on the carb but it doesn't seem to be doing much at all. The carb is set up correctly on all other fronts. It runs ok, albeit rather loud, when I hold the throttle open but as soon as I close it the engine stops running.
It will sometimes spit out of the carb when starting too.
Any ideas? I have played around with the timing a little and it seems to be the same whether advanced or retarded from tdc.
If I need a new throttle screw where can I get one from?
Also I am searching for a chain guard, any ideas when I might be able to find one before I fabricate my own?
Regards
Robin
- Rob Harknett
- Member
- Posts: 11236
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 1990 12:00 am
- Location: ESSEX UK
Getting her running
Spitting back on starting suggests its too far advanced.
I guess you have checked Amal listings, that you have the correct carb and all the correct parts in it for your bike.
A bike thats not had a good run for ages needs more than just starting to get it running correctly.
I guess you have checked Amal listings, that you have the correct carb and all the correct parts in it for your bike.
A bike thats not had a good run for ages needs more than just starting to get it running correctly.
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- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:30 pm
- Location: LONDON UK
Getting her running
Chainguards sometimes come up on Ebay, but it may be some time. Autojumbles are probably your best bet.
- SideValve
- Posts: 189
- Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:37 pm
- Location: OXON UK
Getting her running
Stick your finger in the carb to make sure that screwing the stop is moving the slide. If not somethings up.
Also have a good look at the advance/retard mechansism. Make sure it is opening as it should and that the backplate isn't loose on the spindle.
And put some oil round the joint between carb & head to see if its sucking in air.
Also have a good look at the advance/retard mechansism. Make sure it is opening as it should and that the backplate isn't loose on the spindle.
And put some oil round the joint between carb & head to see if its sucking in air.
Peter W
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- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 10:45 pm
- Location: victoria AUSTRALIA
Getting her running
Pilot jet blocked.
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: EAST SUSSEX UK
Getting her running
Thanks for all you advice
So I've ordered a new silencer, lots of bits for the carb (jets, needles, screws, springs and gaskets), and a few bulbs and electrical bits to finish her off for MOT.
If it still spits I will retard the timing slightly. The auto advance/retard seems to be opening and closing easily enough with some resistance on the springs.
I will let you know how I get on. I can't wait to get it on the road!
So I've ordered a new silencer, lots of bits for the carb (jets, needles, screws, springs and gaskets), and a few bulbs and electrical bits to finish her off for MOT.
If it still spits I will retard the timing slightly. The auto advance/retard seems to be opening and closing easily enough with some resistance on the springs.
I will let you know how I get on. I can't wait to get it on the road!
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: EAST SUSSEX UK
Getting her running
So I had her running but a mechanic friend said the timing was too advanced and started playing around with it. It hasn't run since! I've serviced Thr carb with all new gaskets, needles and jets, fitted a new silencer and condenser. Still can't get her to run. It's got a big white spark on the plug and a tiny spark over the points. Any suggestions?
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- Member
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- Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2010 9:17 pm
- Location: ABERTAWE UK
Getting her running
Star again............re time it as per book, check the condenser is connected correctly, and check points gap (I would prefer a blue spark), then try again to start it.
I put a wedge of wood to hold the weights fully advanced when adjusting the timing, it makes it easier, let us know how you get on
Colin
I put a wedge of wood to hold the weights fully advanced when adjusting the timing, it makes it easier, let us know how you get on
Colin
only dead fish go with the flow
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- Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:01 pm
- Location: UK
Getting her running
with the description of that spark I would venture that the condenser is improperly connected.
as for
quote: but a mechanic friend said
if I had a quid for every time I've heard that
I'd be the ownerof an awful lot of desirable bikes.
nearly as good as
"....but my mate says its the............."
as for
quote: but a mechanic friend said
if I had a quid for every time I've heard that
I'd be the ownerof an awful lot of desirable bikes.
nearly as good as
"....but my mate says its the............."
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: EAST SUSSEX UK
Getting her running
I wish I hadn't let him near it!
The condenser is screwed onto the timing plate and the cable is attached to the points properly but it is not the same as the old one that came out (it's a slightly bigger size and not Lucas).
Can the cam be moved? I think that the ideal spot for it to be opening the points (1/4" before TDC when auto advance is fully open) sits outside of the limited range on the adjuster slots. I had considered drilling new holes in the plate but I think maybe if the cam can be moved that might be a better idea?
The condenser is screwed onto the timing plate and the cable is attached to the points properly but it is not the same as the old one that came out (it's a slightly bigger size and not Lucas).
Can the cam be moved? I think that the ideal spot for it to be opening the points (1/4" before TDC when auto advance is fully open) sits outside of the limited range on the adjuster slots. I had considered drilling new holes in the plate but I think maybe if the cam can be moved that might be a better idea?