Getting her running

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 9:18 pm

I agree with Colin. In your first post you said that they were 'firm when warm' ( ) so my initial guess is also tappet adjustment too tight as they should not be any 'firmer' when th'engine is warm/hot than when it's cold.
You're very welcome to come along to the Sussex section (see website 'Sections' page) and have a natter. I can't think of any lightweight members in our section but ignorance has yet to stop any us from pontificating

Niceride · Post by **Niceride** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 10:24 pm

I will try and make it along, when/where do you meet? I'm in Brighton but I work at Hurstpierpoint, it'd be great to meet you all.

It probably is the tappet, I'll take a look next time I get a chance which will most probably be next week now.
Thanks for all you help, such a great forum!Edited by - Niceride on 17 Nov 2011 10:40:06 PM

1608 · Post by **1608** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:57 pm

I feel there is too much attention to getting tappets 'just right'. Old push rod engines cars and bikes will always be a bit rattly, just accept it and don't expect a silent engine. Tappets are better a little on the slack side than too tight. I believe your tappet clearance is too tight or you have a sticking valve.

Janet · Post by **Janet** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 5:43 am

I have the tappets set a bit rattly on all my bikes. Although they need to be tight enough to do their job, there is less chance of causing damage from expansion and I don't need to be a mechanical genius to get it 'near enough'. Working with two spanners through a small hole to adjust the tappets is awkward so once I've got it close I don't bother undoing the good work to try to get it perfect.
I'd suggest you start again from scratch with your tappet adjustment. I get the impression you set them cold whereas you should set them to spin freely with the engine hot.

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:41 am

quote:
I work at Hurstpierpoint....

I live at Hurstpierpoint!

Small world, innit.

I'll send you a P.M. but see 'Sections' page on this site for meeting info.

theroof · Post by **theroof** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:20 pm

the same thing used to happen to my G2, run for a few miles then cut out, when cooled would start again. I dissmissed the obvious being the points because it would allways fire up first time but on checking the points they were almost closed,once re-set the problem has not occured since.

bjork · Post by **bjork** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:29 pm

As Colin, Spriddler and 1608 John said, them there valve adjustments sound suspect. I suspect too tight too.
As for the valve cover hitting the valve gear??? pretty unlikely and I reckon more likely you were feeling crankcase breathing as the engine was running when you put the cover on. That's normal too, so don't worry about that

Niceride · Post by **Niceride** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:51 pm

Not the tappets! Loosened them off slightly so they are set correctly now. As soon as the bike gets warm all of a sudden there is no spark.
I'm getting frustrated now... I'm gunna try it with a new coil and check all the wiring, it has a new condenser. It's funny as it'll go and there will be power at the points, then all of a sudden there won't be. Earth is good from the battery... Gotta be the coil or a loose wire, unless there is something else I've missed?

took me 3 hours to cover 3 miles tonight.

paul knapp · Post by **paul knapp** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 8:12 am

Bypass the ignition wireing, switch etc and run a wire direct from the battery to the coil (opposite side to contact breaker wire).

Tolly · Post by **Tolly** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 5:04 pm

I would suspect the coil, if some how the cooling oil leaks out (maybe by a damaged outer case) these are the symptoms you get because the coil will overheat and break down until its cool again. Get a good quality coil when you replace.