Various Questions

[Ozmadman]

Well I have finally got round to dismantling part of my bike to fit a rebuilt gearbox and have come across a few queries that hopefully more experienced members here with lightweights can answer.
1) The alternator rotor nut could be undone very easily and the rotor can be moved slightly from side to side on the shaft when the nut is undone, could this be that erratic knocking noise that I sometimes hear? Should the rotor be tight on the shaft with the key fitted? There are also 3 shims between the rotor and the sprocket, without them the rotor rubs on the primary chain(which it has in the past by the looks of the marks on the back of the rotor), is this correct as my parts books says there are shims for the engine sprocket (only on the model 8) but the manual or engine breakdown picture doesn't actually show where they should go and I am wondering whether they should be on the other(engine side) of the sprocket??. Oh, and the clutch centre nut was just over hand tight as well and one of the clutch springs is shorter(looks like it has been made from another spring)
2) I have removed the alternator retaining nuts but cannot shift the alternator, as it is working ok should | just wipe it over to clean it and leave it as it is or should it have a proper clean whilst I have things apart?
3) What should I clean the clutch plates with?
And finally for now, much has been said about possible engine noise being caused by the breather stator tube/bolt thing coming loose on the older models and this was one option for my engine rattle as mine is an older model. My bolt(with the hole in it) appears to be tight so should I leave well alone. Also if it did come loose allowing the breather stator to rattle around how would you know when you tightened it up that the tube was in line with the hole in the stator as this is behind the main crankcase?

Many thanks

Paul

[Janet]

From my limited experience:-
The alternator rotor should be a tight fit. Otherwise it can move and wear the splines, making it worse.
Any shims should be behind the engine sprocket, presumably to assist in lining up the chain properly with the clutch sprocket. As far as I know, there shouldn't be any behind the alternator rotor.

The clutch centre nut is a locknut for the adjustor to the pushrod. If this is slack, the screw can turn and affect the operation of the clutch. All the springs should be the same length when not under compression and they should all be the same strength.

A gentle clean of the alternator would be sensible since you're in there but be careful not to damage anything as the wires are quite delicate. I wouldn't try forcing it out although it may be possible to unscrew the bolts from the case. This can also be fraught with dangers, too.

I don't know about anything else. Doesn't the manual help?

[saltbox alf]

The rotor should be a snug fit on the shaft and key, so that could be your noise.
I would leave the altenator coils in situ if it's well tight on the studs , not to risk the insulation of the coils being cracked. You could of course try to ease it off with some carefull levering with tyre levers bits of wood etc, others may have some methods of removal.

Tricoethelline is recommended for clutch plate cleaning, however don't think you can get it any more, the spray carb cleaner is pretty good for getting cak of clutch plates .

The shims are to get the rotor in the correct alignment to stator and clear the case, however it could be a PO modification. possibly the fact that the key way and hole(sic) is worn and the rotor is sitting further on the shaft than it should.
normally shims would be to align the primary chain.

The nut should be tight as it's the adjuster for the clutch rod to pressure plate and the springs should be equal length.

I don't know about the breather!

[cbranni]

The alternator rotor should slide onto the shaft by hand, the nut should tighten against it and prevent any movement, the shim should be on the inside face of the sprocket, I would leave the stator alone, the clutch center nut should be dog tight. The breather bolt maybe tight but this doesn't mean the stator is tight, the stem of the bolt locates in the stator and prevents movement, it must have been an issue on early machines as its mentioned in the manual, but I have never heard an engine with a loose stator so I can't comment on the noise it makes, if the breather bolt wasn't in the stator location hole it would stick out by about 8mm. It's a shed full of work to check it, engine out, split the cases, remove the drive side bearings, check the fit and then rebuild it, I would leave well alone, only my opinion as always.

Colin

PS if the clutch works okay leave the springs as they are, or fit a new set

[Janet]

What is 'dog tight'?

[saltbox alf]

it's what you need a bucket of water for when bonzo and fifi get all jolly!!!

[Julian_S]

What is 'dog tight'?

You need the 'Engineers Black Book' here you will find the conversion table and 'dog tight' is equivalent to the old imperial '3 white knuckles.'

Julian

[Merlin]

What is 'dog tight'?

Thought being from Yorkshire you would familiar with tight or is it just being carefull.My friend is from Yorkshire and I have to say money runs through his hands like glue. Sorry just having fun.

[Malleon]

...........and living dangerously, Merlin; I know, 'cos I married a Tyke!
And if you are going to the Derbyshire Jampot or Samlesbury Alternative, it might be wise to recruit a bodyguard.
But include me out!

[Ozmadman]

Thanks Janet, Alan and Colin

That's what common sense told me Janet... that the shims should be behind the sprocket so I will check the alignment out when I put it back together but if there is nothing between the rotor and the face of the sprocket then the rotor hits the primary chain which is very strange (check out the picture of the back of the rotor, this must have happened before the PO or whoever spaced out the rotor) and yes the clutch centre nut and rotor nut were barely more than hand tight!!! And I will do as you advise and leave the alternator where it is, just give it a clean up. Colin, I will I think leave the breather gubbing's alone considering where the stator is and hopefully that's not an issue but will try to get 3 equal new clutch springs and a new woodruff key for the alternator rotor as it does look a little worn. Any suggestions for tightening up the rotor and clutch centre nuts at all ie: how to lock things in place to be able to get things "dog tight"? And also, one other thing that is bugging me, what stops oil from the engine oil coming through the bearing behind the above mentioned sprocket and into the primary case? there is no oil seal there only a gasket around the bearing housing itself??