Gear Box help needed

[Janet]

Some things can't be rushed Janet. (It wouldn't be a water cooled flat twin would it?)
Dave.

It could be.

[Rangy65]

[quote janet]is he still struggling with it? Did it work? Are Paul's instructions clear, concise, accurate and worth putting into Technical Articles?.

Yup Pau'ls advice is good and it doesnt seem like i asked for help over Ten months ago however i have been suffering from LGD. ( Lightweight Gearbox Depression) Hahaha

Its still broke, followed instructions all gears select good, one leak from kick start shaft only i am now starting to believe in the god of starting first kick!

Whats this!! my hopes are dashed just using the rear wheel to turn the gear box over there is a clicking from the gear box oh no damn!

spent this afternoon fault finding and if you press the kick starter lever towards the front of the bike clicking noise goes away - suspect kickstart spring tension.

Try as i might i can get no satisfaction as the song says. Anyway what i thinks the problem is that the kick start shaft is not aligned to the kick start ratchet i.e the hole to locate the tension spring seemed to be in the wrong place.

Does anyone know how to align this? do you fit the tension spring to get the position right?

wanna ride it!!

Thanks
Steve

[Ozmadman]

Sent - 11 Jan 2015 5:03:20 PM Show Profile Email Poster Reply w/Quote

Hi I replied to your message which appeared on the old forum so here it is..
Sorry for the late reply but I couldn't find this message as you are using the old system on jam pot. Things have changed and the PM section is now accessed on the forum page. Anyway, tensioning the spring is a bit of trial and error but basically, assemble the kickstart shaft, the outer heavy spring, the ratchet part inside, don't forget to put the light open spring under the ratchet collar part. Once all together in that thin plate section of the box then put the kick start lever onto the spline and push the shaft inwards so that the shaft part pushes away from the ratchet collar then turn that part down so that the teeth on the shaft part move round three or four teeth in relation to the ratchet collar part then allow the shaft to come back out and then the kickstart spring will have a bit of tension. Pull the kickstart down and then see if it springs back on hits own. If it doesn't or is a bit weak just do it again moving it round one more tooth and try again. Don't overdo it though as if it is too tensioned that large spring may be under too much tension when the lever is pushed right down and cause it to snap. Paul
Ps this is how I remember it but a while ago now since I did it but I think from this you can get the general idea, your clicking does sound like lack of tension bearing in mind there may be a bit of extra friction due to the two seals on the shaft instead of one or unless you are missing the spring under the ratchet collar of course

[Ozmadman]

Ignore the bit about two seals on the kickstart shaft as that was someone else on the G2 thread, same box though, hope you understood my explanation?

[Rangy65]

Thanks again Paul figured it out. Now it wont select gears properly so i cant have put things back in the right order.

Time for a nice cuppa - carry on again next week.

all the best

steve

[Ozmadman]

Don't think you can do too much wrong, have you put the selector gate plunger and spring in? Also, have you replaced anything? I changed all the bushes and bearings in mine and it was a bit tight and needed the output sprocket moved back and forth to get the selector plunger to drop into the indents in the gate every time I manually changed gear. It can't be much as I don't think you would have got the case parts back together. If all else fails, check the selector forks as I think they can't be interchanged. Have you got the cup washer and spring that puts tension on the gear selector pawl in the outer casing? As without it the pawl will just flop about and do nothing?

[Rangy65]

Ok gear box back togeather again. I decided to use a spare mainshaft selector fork as the one that came with the gear box seemed odd ( see previous replies).Bought box of gearbox bits at Newalk auto jumble so they came in handy. I also noticed there was a chip/notch in the layshaft so replaced that too. Just for good measure i also fitted a new ratchet spring 041358. I also took my time lining up cases ensuring nothing moved ( using Paul's method).
Its now working well by hand, selects all gears & neutral fine. I guess the proof's when i finally get to run under its own steam.

I do have another question. Primary chain tension says 3/8 whip in the book. Now i have my gear box all the way to the rear position and i can pull the primary chain about a 1/4 off the front of the engine sprocket. At the lowest point the chain sags and i have about an inch of up and down play from the chain centre line. I think the chain is stretched and worn so i will be ordering a new one. Can anyone tell me how to correctly measure the chain 'Whip'.

Many thanks
Steve

[Ozmadman]

Reckon your box will be fine, if it changes by hand off the bike then it will probably be fine once on the bike. Just make sure you have the oil topped right up to bottom of the inspection plate. The chain sounds really knackered, presume you do have the duplex chain? I have read the adjustment to mean 3/8 whip(total movement) in the top run as there will always be more play in the bottom run once the chain is under tension. Just use some common sense here, too tight will put a strain on the crankshaft bearings and the gearbox output bearing so as long as it has a little play then it should be fine. Recheck it though once you have used the bike for a few miles as it will probably slacken from the original setting

[Rangy65]

Thanks again Paul- new chain ordered.

Cheers
Steve

[Ozmadman]

Where did you get the chain from?