New bike

Information relating to the Matchless G5 or AJS Model 8 350cc Lightweight
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Ozmadman
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Re: New bike

Post by Ozmadman »

ajsm18 wrote: the kickstart doesn't seem to be correct as it is non-folding and my toes clout the footrest!
Yes it should have a folding type
ajsm18 wrote: It also seems very gutless and has a bad misfire at speed. So more investigation needed.
timing?? or advance/retard unit sticking or the springs have come off or contacts not adjusted correctly

Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
ajsm18
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Re: New bike

Post by ajsm18 »

Thanks Paul. I have several things to check!
ajsm18
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Re: New bike

Post by ajsm18 »

Further updates on the clutch situation....

I've fitted new friction plates and springs and the clutch no longer slips but I can't get the plates to free enough so it drags badly when at a standstill in gear and it is impossible to select neutral. I also have a new cable and lever as the cable fitted didn't have enough adjustment. I guess the steel plates could be warped but they looked OK when I took the clutch apart. I also just re-fitted the plates in the same order as I took them off so the inner plate which, I believe, has a step or recess may be the wrong way round.

Whan adjusting the clutch pushrod for free play, should the cable be completely slack or disconnected? In other words should the actuating arm be allowed to move as far out as possible when screwing the clutch centre nut in? Les explained that the centre nut should be screwed in and then backed off half a turn to avoid the clutch slipping but is that clearance in addition to the 3/16" slack at the handlebar?

I tried backing the spring adjusters out a bit to see if I could get more free movement but I'd always understood that one thread of the stud should be visible proud of the clutch nut and I've now wound the nuts out so that the studs are not visible i.e. the end of the stud is below the top of the nut. I hope that makes sense!

Why do I find clutches so difficult to set up!

Mark
SPRIDDLER
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Re: New bike

Post by SPRIDDLER »

Why do I find clutches so difficult to set up!
Mark.
It's because you are confusing two adjustments.
Free play (1/4" or 3/16", or whatever suits you) at the 'bar lever is set by cable adjustment. It does NOT adjust the clutch, it only sets the 'bar lever free play.
The clutch is adjusted at the pushrod as Les described and the cable must not be affecting the free play when you make this adjustment. Whether you slacken the cable right off or disconnect it is up to you. If in doubt, disconnect it.

The spring pressure needs to be set so that the clutch does not slip and the plates 'lift' equally all round. How far the pressure 'nuts' are screwed in or out is more or less irrelevant. Obviously if they are screwed out to near the end of their thread they're in danger of falling off, and it indicates there's something wrong with the way the clutch has been assembled.
More spring pressure than just enough necessary to prevent clutch slip will merely result in a heavier action at the 'bar lever. (i.e. Needing the grip of a Scotsman on a 5 pound note).
If the pressure 'nuts' are screwed in much too far the springs will become coil bound when the clutch is operated and the plates may not free completely.
Your new friction plates will probably be fatter than the old ones. Your steel plates may be warped. Observe them when kicking the engine over with the clutch lever pulled in when any warping should show up.
Adjust it again and report back!
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
ajsm18
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Re: New bike

Post by ajsm18 »

Hi Spriddler,

Thanks for your comprehensive explanation. I'll get out in the garage tonight and have another go. I thought I'd understood that the spring nuts should be would in so the spring caught on them and prevented them from coming loose but I guess that would happen with almost any pressure.

Anyway, now I have a clearer idea of what I need to do,, I'll give it another go and report back.

VMCC run on Sunday may be possible after all!

Thanks

Mark
ajsm18
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Re: New bike

Post by ajsm18 »

I've just had another go at mt clutch, following some excellent advice, and am pleased to report that it is a lot better. I think I need to get the plates lifting more squarely but I'm much happier.

Thanks again

Mark
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Ozmadman
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Re: New bike

Post by Ozmadman »

ajsm18 wrote:I've just had another go at mt clutch, following some excellent advice, and am pleased to report that it is a lot better. I think I need to get the plates lifting more squarely but I'm much happier.
Thanks again
Mark
Excellent stuff nothing like a bit of the ol' trial and error with these old bikes

Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
ajsm18
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Posts: 204
Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2000 12:00 am
Location: HAMPSHIRE UK

Re: New bike

Post by ajsm18 »

Yes. In my case there is plenty of error!
ajsm18
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Re: New bike

Post by ajsm18 »

I think I've got the clutch sorted now and even have a leak free chaincase, so far! As i was bombing around the lanes on Saturday, I thought I detected a hint of clutch slip still so I may have to take it all to bits again ( :( ) but, for the moment, I'm happy with it.

It does rev quite well, although I do have an occasional misfire that I need to sort out.

Anyway, I'm a happy bunny and thanks for all the help, support and advice. It really does make owning an old bike easier!

Mark
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Re: New bike

Post by SPRIDDLER »

Well done Mark.
If you have managed to get the plates lifting evenly now just screw 'in' each pressure spring nut an equal amount and they should stay lifting evenly. The cable free play at the 'bar lever only needs to be enough to take any tension off the clutch cable when its 'bar lever is at rest (i.e. released). The greater the cable free play at the 'bar lever the less 'throw' you will have available at the clutch-freeing pushrod end to separate the plates because the free play is 'lost' cable movement. As you have new friction plates the cable free play (and clutch adjustment) may change as the plates bed in.
If you are confident that you can keep your trousers out of the chains after adjusting the clutch pressure springs take the bike for a run before you replace the outer chaincase half. I assume your '47 doesn't have the small removable cover/dome for clutch access so you have to remove the ali band etc. and take all the outer cover off.
It won't hurt to ride without the cover, and obviously without oil in the chaincase, to check if the clutch still slips. BUT MAKE SURE you keep fingers or clothing away from the chains!!
Sorry if all this waffle is stating the b******g obvious. I've time on my hands waiting for the dishwasher engineer to turn up! (You don't know anything about dishwashers do you? :headbang: ).
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
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