Clutch plate advice

Information relating to the Matchless G5 or AJS Model 8 350cc Lightweight
Rangy65
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Clutch plate advice

Post by Rangy65 »

Hi all, my rebuild is progressing new wiring, 12v conversion, Boyer ignition this comming weekend should see it running.

Just because i dont know how old/how worn i decided to replace the clutch plates. The clutch does work from a static point of view i.e. i can kick over the motor without slippage and i can see the plates and pressure plate working and i can select all the gears.

Here's the issue. I ordered 4 steel plates p/n 043191 and 4 double sided plates p/n 043192 from the club spares.

When fiited i can't get any adjustment that works clutch just slips or the cable has to be so loose its not practical.

I decided to compare the two sets of plates and i have uploaded some photos to illustrate.

The steel plates measure 2mm in thickness and are as near to the old ones as i would expect. The double side plates are 3mm where the old ones are 4mm. this means when the plates are in situ there's an overall 6mm differance.

Has anyone come across this? Are there different part numbers that i should use? or are my new plates not manufactured to the right specifications?



Answers on a post card.

Kind regards
Steve
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Ozmadman
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Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Ozmadman »

Firstly, you have got the backplate (the steel plate that goes in first) round the right way I presume as it is stepped! Secondly, your clutch basket does look a bit deep? maybe just the camera angle. I have my engine and clutch apart at the moment so here is a picture of my clutch (loosely assembled) with new metal plates but the original friction ones which were cleaned up and put back so I can't vouch for the club spares plates. The 3 adjusting nuts should be screwed in just about level with the tops of each stud and the centre adjusting bolt should be screwed in until you feel it hit the clutch rod and then backed off a fraction to give a bit of free play. Also make sure the cable is in the lever properly (the lever in the box behind the filler plate) and that the cylindrical housing that holds the lever (held down by a locking ring)has not come loose as it should be tight and at the correct angle which should be predetermined by a locating pin in the housing. Adjust the cable adjuster(lever end) so there is a small amount of play as well at the lever. The clutch push rod should be 10 and 3/32" long
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Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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Les Howard
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Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Les Howard »

Looks like you've assembled it wrongly...surely a friction plate (NON castellated) goes in first...this will leave a plain friction plate (castellated) under the alloy pressure plate....swap 'em over it'll be OK then....Les
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Ozmadman
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Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Ozmadman »

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Last edited by Ozmadman on Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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Ozmadman
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Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Ozmadman »

Les P H wrote:Looks like you've assembled it wrongly...surely a friction plate (NON castellated) goes in first...this will leave a plain friction plate (castellated) under the alloy pressure plate....swap 'em over it'll be OK then....Les
There is a castellated steel plate under the pressure plate?

How he has got it as shown in the expanded clutch picture is correct if it has been assembled going from right to left. There is a stepped castellated steel plate that goes in first which he hasn't shown in that picture (but it looks like it is there in the assembled picture because you can count 5 castellated plates), then the first friction,first steel, friction, steel etc until all 8 have been fitted (4 of each) the final plate is therefore a castellated steel plate as shown in the picture which takes the pressure from the alloy cover. Note, the replacement steel plates are now all covered with tiny indentations, evidently designed to stop warping? It looks ok the me assembly wise.

Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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Les Howard
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Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Les Howard »

Hi Paul..I can see your photo shows it correctly but Steve's one looks like a gap between the pressure plate and the plain castellated plate...presumably a friction plate in between?....that's how I see it on his photos.....my eyes aren't too brilliant..Les
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Ozmadman
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Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Ozmadman »

Les P H wrote:Hi Paul..I can see your photo shows it correctly but Steve's one looks like a gap between the pressure plate and the plain castellated plate...presumably a friction plate in between?....that's how I see it on his photos.....my eyes aren't too brilliant..Les
Hi Les, see what you mean... think that may just be the camera angle/shadow or something? if there was a friction plate sandwiched there it would show as it is a larger diameter than the alloy cover.. the basket still looks weird to me??? I know the G2/model 14 (250cc) has less plates and probably a different basket but presumably that would be shallower not deeper?? still reckon that proper adjustment will sort it though

Paul
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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Les Howard
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Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Les Howard »

Hi Paul...yes maybe it is just shadow, I can see what you mean about the basket it does look deep...maybe Steve has a 5 plate version? he will need another pair of plates...looks room for them.....Les

PS just took another look and I can see the clutch centre adjuster nut is nearly completely out....I wonder if Steve has not released all the tension in the clutch cable with the adjusters (handlebar or gearbox cable end)?...This could result in the alloy pressure plate still riding on the push rod end after turning out the centre adjuster nut and not allowing the springs to do their job....which is also what you have already suggested....Les

Final PS!....Have the pressure plate's three spring cups jammed on their studs...this will make the plate stay out and not exert pressure....this is not that likely ...but not impossible....Les
Last edited by Les Howard on Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Ozmadman
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Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Ozmadman »

Could be... hopefully he will try our suggestions and this will resolve it for him?
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
Rangy65
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Joined: Tue May 07, 2013 11:35 pm
Location: LINCOLNSHIRE UK

Re: Clutch plate advice

Post by Rangy65 »

Hi Paul/Les thanks for the help and advise. Paul i have got the backplate in as described and in answer to Les's comment around the adjuster nut being nearly out - the reason is because the alloy pressure plate sits deeper into the basket with the new clutch plates as they are thinner than the originals.

Some more photos to try and illustrate. I have a another clutch basket & plates for comparision in the photo's.

I think i will use the original plates, however Les you have given me an idea that i could fit two extra plates ( one steel one friction) and make a five plate clutch.

My real concern is that maybe some one at the club spares who gets these made up might not realise there is a difference.

1st picture show both cluch baskets complete with original plates
2nd picture shows new plates in the right clutch basket
3rd picture shows the original plates on the left and new plates on the right you can clearly see the difference in height between the two.


full morning on this Saturday
Clutch1.jpg
Clutch2.jpg
Clutch3.jpg



Thanks again
Cheers
Steve
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