Side Panel

[Ozmadman]

Finally got a LH side panel courtesy of Colin ( he did warn me that it wasn't in the best of condition and that I was welcome to it so offer accepted). It has had a few "repairs" in it's life and for some reason two of the fixing holes had been welded up?? there is also a hole been welded up which should not have been there in the first place? I re-drilled the two original holes but the bottom one seems to have been repaired to fix either corrosion or to fill in a ripped open fixing hole but as you can see, when I drilled it, a bit of the weld came away, no problem as there is enough there to mount it and it is completely hidden once on the bike. The top hole should have a recess around it on the outside and a corresponding bump on the inside but it looks like that had been flattened off and filled with weld so I will have to live with that. There are a few dents here and there but this is what it looks like stripped off and ready for filling and painting. The metal where it hasn't been ground down to weld has a very rough etched finish to it, is that how they were in those days before painting? I am going to try to transform it into as nice usable panel.

[Ozmadman]

A couple more pictures

[Les Howard]

The metal where it hasn't been ground down to weld has a very rough etched finish to it, is that how they were in those days before painting?

...Hi Paul...No the steel would have been completely smooth apart from a few ripples that sometimes occurs on the pressing that has been bent from horizontal to vertical around a corner...Looking at the really bad part with two holes, you need new metal here due to the holes that are there to take fixing bolts, filler is just going to crack out....so you could cut out that section completely just inside the edge curves and replace with new sheet steel, easily obtained, just measure a good section to obtain the thickness, Ebay has lots of suppliers of small amount of sheet steel. The new section can be Mig welded in and easily ground smooth, otherwise use a blow lamp & solder to wipe in the entire area. This is not as difficult as it sounds just flux it and wipe some tinmans solder across with some form of wipe. Being so soft it is easy to reshape flat and smooth. However you still need some steel around the hole/s, perhaps large penny washers braised in on the inside, do this first if you use solder for obvious reasons..Les

[saltbox alf]

I agree that solder is a good bet for repair and pretty strong, MIG is great too but oxo (oxy actelene) will just burn holes unless you are gentle and stick welding will just destroy it.
At least you have a box that is reasonable to repair, seen a lot worse

[Ozmadman]

Thanks Les and Alf..

I have no welding facilities and wouldn't know where to start if i did but the solder idea is something I hadn't thought of. Will have a look on ebay for some flux and solder and give it ago. Would solder be strong enough to hold a washer for the damaged hole? it hasn't got to take that much pressure if I am careful and only tighten it gently

Thanks again

[Les Howard]

A normal butane gas torch is OK...make sure you don't over heat the panel, just enough to melt the solder heating the metal and solder mostly at the same time. The rough solder can be filed off quickly with a coarse file, then a fine file and finished. As long as there is space under the panel for the washers you can solder them in position but if you use solder filler then its going to have some conflict but probably better to do the washers after the panel work is soldered. Braising is better though but you need a good "MAP" torch at least to get it hot enough.
Of course the easiest way is to solder the washers and use normal body filler on the panel as long as there is sufficient thickness of metal left to take it....soldering is the stronger method but filler is easier....I'm sure you'll manage a good job.

3x films

http://freespace.virgin.net/tommy.sandham/leading.htm

PS...For a real easy job you might be able to use "JB weld" (Not the Rapid version) and glue the Penny washers in position....make sure the washers are roughened up and any shiny coating removed...either file the surface or grind them to get a good key....Les

[Ozmadman]

Thanks Les, I have had a look at the the article and will check out the you tube clips when I get a mo. I have used JB weld before so that could be the easy option but it would be nice to do it properly and to try the solder and learn a new skill. Never thought of doing it like this before could be useful for future stuff. Just a thought, If you repaired something in this way, could it be chromed afterwards??

[Les Howard]

I doubt it, but I would check with your preferred plater....I reckon the best way would be to get it thickly copper plated, then flat it down then finish with nickel and chrome...Les

[Ozmadman]

I doubt it, but I would check with your preferred plater....I reckon the best way would be to get it thickly copper plated, then flat it down then finish with nickel and chrome...Les

Thanks, just my mind working overtime for the future. I have an RD250 which has lots of chrome so that got my mind thinking..

[bunners]

Paul (Oz)
look on fleebay for some stuff called solder paint, it is a very good flux impregnated with solder which is ideal for tinning bare steel, can be used with an ordinary gas torch, if you can then get hold of some plumbers solder use that to gradually build up. do not totally melt the plumbers solder it needs to be pliable so it can be worked to shape with a wooden spatula. and cleaned up with a metal plane. I have used this method on many occasions since the sixties so know it works.