top end
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Re: top end
Mick D is spot on. Grind in and......
Petrol in the combustion chamber and see if anything "leaks" out.
That's what I've done.
Johnny B
Petrol in the combustion chamber and see if anything "leaks" out.
That's what I've done.
Johnny B
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Re: top end
I always do it the other way round, one valve at a time: Stand cyl head up and pour petrol into the inlet/zorst port (i.e. fill it up) as it's easier to see petrol leaking into the head than creeping from the combustion chamber and along the inlet/zorst port. You can't get much petrol in the combustion chamber and it's not easy to see whether it's just one valve (which one?) or both that are leaking.
(Obviously if it comes running out of the valve guides you've another job to do).
(Obviously if it comes running out of the valve guides you've another job to do).
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: top end
Hi, yes I will clean up, re grind the valve seats, fit new springs and re build.
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob
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Re: top end
You can do it without a tool, it needs the knack rather than great strength, although your new springs might be a bit of a struggle.
Have a look at pages 27 and 28 of the link below. It's to a H/Weight workshop manual but still relevant for your needs. I've used the H/Weight w/shop manual as the text and pics are very much clearer than many others (and I'm not familiar with the L/W manuals).
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf
Have a look at pages 27 and 28 of the link below. It's to a H/Weight workshop manual but still relevant for your needs. I've used the H/Weight w/shop manual as the text and pics are very much clearer than many others (and I'm not familiar with the L/W manuals).
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: top end
Hi
I re-fitted my springs without the use of the tool, not too difficult - I engaged the spring in the collar and located the tangs onto the base plate with the help of pliers, (as the misplaced spring in your previous photo),then just pushed down on the coil part of the spring and it slid into place.
Regards Mick
I re-fitted my springs without the use of the tool, not too difficult - I engaged the spring in the collar and located the tangs onto the base plate with the help of pliers, (as the misplaced spring in your previous photo),then just pushed down on the coil part of the spring and it slid into place.
Regards Mick
- Janet
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Re: top end
According to a professional bike 'worker-oner,' some new springs are so strong that it's almost impossible to fit them without some serious equipment. I don't know whether they're being made for lightweights.SPRIDDLER wrote:You can do it without a tool, it needs the knack rather than great strength, although your new springs might be a bit of a struggle
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Re: top end
In case you are unaware, the hairpin valve spring fitting tool is available from a couple of sources - here at our spares dep't:
http://www.amoc-parts.com/store/comersu ... duct=21316
http://www.amoc-parts.com/store/comersu ... duct=21316
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
- Ozmadman
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Re: top end
Think you may find it impossible to get new springs and if you do please tell us where you got them from as I could do with a new set as wellred_dog49 wrote:Hi, yes I will clean up, re grind the valve seats, fit new springs and re build.
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
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Re: top end
yep your right, only need one,anyone got a hens teeth they can do without.
regards
Rob.
regards
Rob.
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Re: top end
Hi
I'm not 100% sure but I think springs can be heat treated again after re-forming - may be worth a call to a manufacturer to discuss.
Regards Mick
I'm not 100% sure but I think springs can be heat treated again after re-forming - may be worth a call to a manufacturer to discuss.
Regards Mick