top end

Information relating to the Matchless G5 or AJS Model 8 350cc Lightweight
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Re: top end

Postby 56G80S » Sat Feb 03, 2018 8:02 pm

Mick D is spot on. Grind in and......

Petrol in the combustion chamber and see if anything "leaks" out.

That's what I've done.

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Re: top end

Postby SPRIDDLER » Sat Feb 03, 2018 8:43 pm

I always do it the other way round, one valve at a time: Stand cyl head up and pour petrol into the inlet/zorst port (i.e. fill it up) as it's easier to see petrol leaking into the head than creeping from the combustion chamber and along the inlet/zorst port. You can't get much petrol in the combustion chamber and it's not easy to see whether it's just one valve (which one?) or both that are leaking.
(Obviously if it comes running out of the valve guides you've another job to do).
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Re: top end

Postby red_dog49 » Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:25 pm

Hi, yes I will clean up, re grind the valve seats, fit new springs and re build.
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob

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Re: top end

Postby SPRIDDLER » Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:51 pm

You can do it without a tool, it needs the knack rather than great strength, although your new springs might be a bit of a struggle.
Have a look at pages 27 and 28 of the link below. It's to a H/Weight workshop manual but still relevant for your needs. I've used the H/Weight w/shop manual as the text and pics are very much clearer than many others (and I'm not familiar with the L/W manuals).
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf
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Re: top end

Postby Mick D » Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:24 am

Hi

I re-fitted my springs without the use of the tool, not too difficult - I engaged the spring in the collar and located the tangs onto the base plate with the help of pliers, (as the misplaced spring in your previous photo),then just pushed down on the coil part of the spring and it slid into place.

Regards Mick

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Re: top end

Postby Janet » Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:29 am

SPRIDDLER wrote:You can do it without a tool, it needs the knack rather than great strength, although your new springs might be a bit of a struggle
According to a professional bike 'worker-oner,' some new springs are so strong that it's almost impossible to fit them without some serious equipment. I don't know whether they're being made for lightweights.
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Re: top end

Postby SPRIDDLER » Sun Feb 04, 2018 10:07 am

In case you are unaware, the hairpin valve spring fitting tool is available from a couple of sources - here at our spares dep't:

http://www.amoc-parts.com/store/comersu ... duct=21316
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Re: top end

Postby Ozmadman » Sun Feb 04, 2018 6:36 pm

red_dog49 wrote:Hi, yes I will clean up, re grind the valve seats, fit new springs and re build.
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob

Think you may find it impossible to get new springs and if you do please tell us where you got them from as I could do with a new set as well
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Re: top end

Postby red_dog49 » Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:26 pm

yep your right, only need one,anyone got a hens teeth they can do without.
regards
Rob.

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Re: top end

Postby Mick D » Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:34 pm

Hi

I'm not 100% sure but I think springs can be heat treated again after re-forming - may be worth a call to a manufacturer to discuss.

Regards Mick

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