Clutch Problem

Information relating to the Matchless G3 or AJS Model 16 350cc Heavyweight
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Clutch Problem

Postby mikeydpippin » Fri Mar 25, 2016 12:19 pm

I,ve taken her out in the sunshine today, and keep losing the clutch and pushing the bike home.
When removing the inspection cover Burman B52 Gearbox) I can see G-33-3 (cam-plate moving activating clutch), keeps sticking and not returning I,ve set the clutch with the 1/8th free play but still sticking.
I have replaced with another spare G-33-3 and still it sticks at max forward.
When removed from gearbox this part moves freely as it should, the pushrod is new as is the ball bearing, new clutch plates,
the clutch cable is new 55" long (all parts from Jampot).
Clutch springs set to max then back 4 full turns.
Seems to work okay on the bench.
Any ideas??.
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Re: Clutch Problem

Postby aobp11 » Fri Mar 25, 2016 1:28 pm

This can happen when the cam plate ball holes are badly worn. I had to renew these for that reason, also sticking. It might also be that your clutch handle has too large "stroke". I know there are different handle types (say for long fingers and for shorter fingers) but I don' t know if these pull the cable over different distances.

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Re: Clutch Problem

Postby dave16mct » Fri Mar 25, 2016 1:32 pm

Sometimes you can adjust it so it doesn't lift as far. It may be you've got handlebar levers with 1 1/8" centres (centre of the pivot to centre of the nipple) which pull the clutch in too far. No need to push it home though, just take the inspection cover off and flick the lever back with a screwdriver.
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Re: Clutch Problem

Postby JimFitz » Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:20 pm

dave16mct wrote: It may be you've got handlebar levers with 1 1/8" centres (centre of the pivot to centre of the nipple) which pull the clutch in too far.
Dave.


Exactly the problem I had - gives too much movement on the cable. Should be 7/8" centres I believe. I fitted a spare primary drive chain spring link over the handlebar side of the lever to hold the lever in a little to reduce the stroke and it solved the problem. Also do not have to reach too far for the lever if you only have little fingers.

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1952 G80 rigid, 1960 G12 DL / Watsonian Monza, 1954 G80S.

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Re: Clutch Problem

Postby mikeydpippin » Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:46 pm

Brilliant, always love it when there's an answer, especially when all your hairs have been pulled out,
Thanks chaps, so I need,

900535 BRAKE/CLUTCH LEVERS, PLAIN ENDS
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Re: Clutch Problem

Postby SPRIDDLER » Fri Mar 25, 2016 6:04 pm

JimFitz wrote:
dave16mct wrote: Should be 7/8" centres I believe. I fitted a spare primary drive chain spring link over the handlebar side of the lever to hold the lever in a little to reduce the stroke and it solved the problem.


As I have done, too, also, as well, when experimenting with brake and clutch levers on left. And you will always have a spare link!.
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Re: Clutch Problem

Postby P K Gray » Sun Apr 15, 2018 7:06 pm

JimFitz wrote:
dave16mct wrote: It may be you've got handlebar levers with 1 1/8" centres (centre of the pivot to centre of the nipple) which pull the clutch in too far.
Dave.


I've just fitted a 7/8" pivot lever to the AFS G3. From an almost impossible pull with a 1 1/8" pivot lever to quite nice gentle/smooth action, great simple solution to a problem.
Many thanks

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Re: Clutch Problem

Postby Pharisee » Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:38 pm

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Re: Clutch Problem

Postby Andy51 » Sun Apr 15, 2018 10:28 pm

Mike, I had this problem on my '54 G80 a while ago. I got over it by adjusting the nut in the clutch plate to give minimal clearance, not the 1/2 turn in the book, then adjusting the cable to give 1/16 in or so at the lever end of the cable. This worked fine, but just to be sure, I replaced both halves of the cam at a later date. No problems since! Andy

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