Thanks, will examine to see if cause.
Regards,
Stephen
How far to go?
- G3L1946
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Re: How far to go?
Thanks for the background as it does (or may) help to put any issues with the bike in the context of its past.
Indeed so. Countless times after 'nipping out' on a fine day just to give the bike a short test run I've been enjoying it too much to stop and ridden off into the lanes for maybe another couple of hours.G3L1946 wrote: My estimation of annual mileage may be up for debate. Once I get going, who knows!
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Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: How far to go?
One bush from club spares that I fitted some years ago had the spiral cut full length but wrong-handed, thus 'screwing' a fast flow of oil into the mag drive housing. Although the bush was replaced FOC I had to strip the engine again to replace it.Stuart Jenkins wrote:Hi Stephen,
Oil in the mag drive cover could be due to the bush being fitted the wrong way round? Easy fix if it is, press out and turn it round.
Hope this helps.
Stuart
Here's an old one from my '54 G3LS that I kept (in a box of duff spark plugs ).
The second pic with the bush rotated 180 deg shows where the spiral has begun to wear away in one area (which is at the point corresponding to when the cam is lifting the tappet against the valve spring force).
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'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: How far to go?
Hi
I always start a restoration prepared to take it to 'nuts and bolts' level. In practice, I have never had the need to do this, as the dis-assembly progresses you will find points where you are confident no further breakdown is necessary.
My advice would be to break the project down into manageable chunks, (though these can be carried out concurrently as time, experience, spares and funds allow).
If you are going to get the frame painted / coated, now is the time to do it, but if your getting an outside agency to do this send all of the other parts that require the same treatment at once, it's cheaper that way.
Wheels are probably the easiest sub assemblies to tackle, DIY wheel building, if they need it, is within the capability of anyone with a bit of patience and ability to work methodically. Bearings, with luck, will only require in situ cleaning, greasing and adjustment, brakes, cleaning and adjustment, new rubber if needs and you've got two nice big ticks in the box
I'd go for the forks next if they're teledraulic - again easy to restore. Take them apart and with a following wind you'll only need a pair of oil seals and a few fibre washers, (slider extensions and stanchions are the 'big ticket' items here).
The gearbox is a fairly easy strip down but if it selects all gears and spins freely you could just drain it and as long as the oil shows no evidence of water, rust or metal particulate just replace the oil.
I agree with what's been said about the engine earlier, don't split the crank cases unless you need to - these are 'agricultural' engines.
Regards Mick
I always start a restoration prepared to take it to 'nuts and bolts' level. In practice, I have never had the need to do this, as the dis-assembly progresses you will find points where you are confident no further breakdown is necessary.
My advice would be to break the project down into manageable chunks, (though these can be carried out concurrently as time, experience, spares and funds allow).
If you are going to get the frame painted / coated, now is the time to do it, but if your getting an outside agency to do this send all of the other parts that require the same treatment at once, it's cheaper that way.
Wheels are probably the easiest sub assemblies to tackle, DIY wheel building, if they need it, is within the capability of anyone with a bit of patience and ability to work methodically. Bearings, with luck, will only require in situ cleaning, greasing and adjustment, brakes, cleaning and adjustment, new rubber if needs and you've got two nice big ticks in the box
I'd go for the forks next if they're teledraulic - again easy to restore. Take them apart and with a following wind you'll only need a pair of oil seals and a few fibre washers, (slider extensions and stanchions are the 'big ticket' items here).
The gearbox is a fairly easy strip down but if it selects all gears and spins freely you could just drain it and as long as the oil shows no evidence of water, rust or metal particulate just replace the oil.
I agree with what's been said about the engine earlier, don't split the crank cases unless you need to - these are 'agricultural' engines.
Regards Mick
- G3L1946
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Re: How far to go?
Hi to all responders and thank you,
All taken on board. Just a further clarification. I'm going to replace the offending leaking bush within the magneto case, bottom sprocket. Can this be tackled by simply (?) removing the chain, sprocket and removal of the next piece of casing ( shown # 018308 in manual, but no name ? ). This would not require a complete engine ‘split'.
As regards painting I'm on a bit of a budget ( aren't we all, especially on a pension ) so I'm not sure about the frame but the other tinware ( tool boxes, mudguards, petrol tank ) I'll get sprayed locally.
Thanks for your support,
Stephen
All taken on board. Just a further clarification. I'm going to replace the offending leaking bush within the magneto case, bottom sprocket. Can this be tackled by simply (?) removing the chain, sprocket and removal of the next piece of casing ( shown # 018308 in manual, but no name ? ). This would not require a complete engine ‘split'.
As regards painting I'm on a bit of a budget ( aren't we all, especially on a pension ) so I'm not sure about the frame but the other tinware ( tool boxes, mudguards, petrol tank ) I'll get sprayed locally.
Thanks for your support,
Stephen
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Re: How far to go?
Yes you can do that for the 'outer' bush. On re-reading my earlier post I realise that it was a bit ambiguous/muddled which is another effect of being old enough for a pensionG3L1946 wrote: I'm going to replace the offending leaking bush within the magneto case, bottom sprocket. Can this be tackled by simply (?) removing the chain, sprocket and removal of the next piece of casing ( shown # 018308 in manual, but no name ? ). This would not require a complete engine ‘split'.
I'm on a bit of a budget ( aren't we all, especially on a pension )
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
- G3L1946
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Re: How far to go?
I know the feeling.....all too well! Thanks for your help.
Much appreciated.
Stephen
Much appreciated.
Stephen