stand

Information relating to the Matchless G3 or AJS Model 16 350cc Heavyweight
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exdysonman
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 3:57 pm
Location: LINCOLNSHIRE UK

stand

Post by exdysonman »

hello
i have a 1956 g3ls and its a bugger to get onto centre stand i can see there is wear on the frame stop but does anyone know of an easyish repair
thanks
steve
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Rob Harknett
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Joined: Mon Jan 01, 1990 12:00 am
Location: ESSEX UK

Re: stand

Post by Rob Harknett »

Never used to be a problem when we were younger. Discussed here over and over again. Have you searched all the many past relies on this topic? As for wear there are many parts that wear / bend, so solving one will not achieve much.
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Merlin
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Posts: 3683
Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2001 12:00 am
Location: BLACKPOOL UK

Re: stand

Post by Merlin »

Rob Harknett wrote:Never used to be a problem when we were younger. Discussed here over and over again. Have you searched all the many past relies on this topic? As for wear there are many parts that wear / bend, so solving one will not achieve much.
Is that wear to the bike or the owner Rob, as I get older my bike seems to be putting on weight? :rofl:
Chemists do it with test tubes
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Group Leader
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:51 pm
Location: Herts UK

Re: stand

Post by Group Leader »

My '53 16MS's centre stand was dished and twisted leading to one of the lugs that makes contact with the button like "frame stops" being severely worn whilst the other was perfect ('because it never came into contact with anything!)

The twist (i.e the two legs were not parallel to each other irrespective of their dished, non-straight shape) was removed by clamping one leg in the appropriate place in a large, solidly mounted bench vice, heating the cross strut with an oxy torch and using a bit of handy scafold pole about 3' long on the free leg the stand was twisted back so that at least the two legs followed the same line (curved at this point rather than straight).

Then the stand was positioned in a "hydraulic press" (actually a simple closed frame using a bottle jack) that looked something like this (not necessarily recommending this one it, is simply used for illustration)

https://www.manomano.co.uk/workshop-pre ... -t-2295702.

The stand was arranged so that the four ends were sitting on cross beams with the curve upwards (i.e so the cross strut was higher than the ends and directly under the jack. The jack was then operated so that it pushed the cross strut down, removing the curve and slightly beyond the straight position so that when the jack was removed and the stand relaxed a bit it was straight (well, near enough!).

As one of the lugs was worn, I turned the stand around (put it in "backwards") to provide two "new" lugs when re-assembling.

As for getting the bike on the stand. I can thouroughly recommend the technique mentioned on another thread which is essentially this;

1) Depress the centre stand until it makes contact with the ground using your left foot.
2) Grasp the rear mudguard handle with your righthand
3) Grasp the bottom edge of the seat, as close to the front (i.e. by the tank) with your left hand.
4) Lift up with your left hand whilst pulling back and lifting up with your righthand and obviously stopping the stand moving with your left foot.

Easy and simple even for this 5' 2", vertically challenged rider!

Hope that makes sense!

Alan
1953 AJS 16MS, 1939 BSA 250 and a 1/3 scale Sopwith Triplane but that's another story ..... :lol:
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