57 G3LS AMC box
Gears work perfectly fine and engaging good but when the bikes just been started and put in first it feels like bike pulls forward with a rattle noise from the clutch, this only happens until the bike warms up and is then perfectly fine when selecting first. I always free off the clutch before staring out. This has only just stated happening.
Clutch?
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- clive
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Re: Clutch?
You are probably going to have to have the clutch apart. Sounds like one of the plates may not be freeing initially. I would also check the clutch centre has not started to come loose.
clive
if it ain't broke don't fix
if it ain't broke don't fix
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Re: Clutch?
Hi
I agree with Clive, the clutch is not freeing correctly. I'd check the pressure plate is lifting off evenly and adjust the springs if not. Also check the oil level in the primary case, it may be a bit low, (it should just touch the chain).
Regards Mick
I agree with Clive, the clutch is not freeing correctly. I'd check the pressure plate is lifting off evenly and adjust the springs if not. Also check the oil level in the primary case, it may be a bit low, (it should just touch the chain).
Regards Mick
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Re: Clutch?
Hi,
I am a newby to AJS but I have just refreshed the clutch on my 350 16MS 1954 and the plates were stuck together and some plane plates were dished, the springs were also different lengths and over the years had just been wound tighter and tighter to compensate for loss of tension. New plates, springs and nuts along with the correct tool to adjust the nuts has fixed it. Note in the manual (for 1954 at least) the springs are tensioned by running the nuts in as far as they will go with the tool then back out 4 full turn each,backing out requires a small screwdriver to lift the nut out of the spring otherwise the locating lug on the nuts trys to destroy the spring! Also mine was rubbing on the outer dome as the previous owner had used a paper gasket, using cork allows the correct clearance. It may be differentby model and year but mine needs GP50 up to the bottom of the view window according to my book.
I just did 50 miles of mixed lanes, dual carriageway and town and all is good. Good luck with your stripdown.
Cheers
Pete
I am a newby to AJS but I have just refreshed the clutch on my 350 16MS 1954 and the plates were stuck together and some plane plates were dished, the springs were also different lengths and over the years had just been wound tighter and tighter to compensate for loss of tension. New plates, springs and nuts along with the correct tool to adjust the nuts has fixed it. Note in the manual (for 1954 at least) the springs are tensioned by running the nuts in as far as they will go with the tool then back out 4 full turn each,backing out requires a small screwdriver to lift the nut out of the spring otherwise the locating lug on the nuts trys to destroy the spring! Also mine was rubbing on the outer dome as the previous owner had used a paper gasket, using cork allows the correct clearance. It may be differentby model and year but mine needs GP50 up to the bottom of the view window according to my book.
I just did 50 miles of mixed lanes, dual carriageway and town and all is good. Good luck with your stripdown.
Cheers
Pete
- clive
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Re: Clutch?
Pete i dont understand some of your post. In particular the bit about using a screw driver. Perhaps its because you have screwed them all the way in. Never tried that even though i have had a 54 AJS. As to the oil level it needs to be just touching the bottom of the chain when looking through the inspection hole or it will leak out the dynamo and gearbox holes.
clive
if it ain't broke don't fix
if it ain't broke don't fix
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Re: Clutch?
Hi,
Thanks for the tip on the oil level. I am using the Bruce Main Smith manuals which says bottom of the window but I do get quite a bit of oil leaking out so I will try your lower level and hopefully it will leak less. I have seen another post that says to fit a water deflector off a comp bike to the drive sprocket behind the clutch, so if it keeps leaking I will try that.
The screwdriver is to ease the peg on the nut to rotate past the start of the spring otherwise the nut trys to drag the spring around with it as you turn the nut anti-clockwise.
Cheers
Pete
Thanks for the tip on the oil level. I am using the Bruce Main Smith manuals which says bottom of the window but I do get quite a bit of oil leaking out so I will try your lower level and hopefully it will leak less. I have seen another post that says to fit a water deflector off a comp bike to the drive sprocket behind the clutch, so if it keeps leaking I will try that.
The screwdriver is to ease the peg on the nut to rotate past the start of the spring otherwise the nut trys to drag the spring around with it as you turn the nut anti-clockwise.
Cheers
Pete
- clive
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Re: Clutch?
Ah the pegs have probably worn off the adjusters on my bikes so its never been a problem.
clive
if it ain't broke don't fix
if it ain't broke don't fix