clive wrote:................ Won't the pressure fron the sides of the tank stop it opening up as I assume it will be a tightish fit. If you are worried why not one turn of gaffer tape round it before fitting the tank.
if you want to keep it original use insulating tape............
I think you are needing a tank that looks like the unpainted tank I have pictured. They were only available in steel. The alloy tank came along in 1954 and mounts differently. I am attaching a picture of the 1954/1955 tank which in this case is alloy.
Hi, Cracking pictures. The one on the left is the same as fitted to my 350 and I have seen the painted, aluminium version as an after market part. I must say it did look very good quality. The unpainted tank looks to be I excellent condition, is it a reproduction? Do you have the supplier contact details for the two tanks pictured?
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clive wrote:................ Won't the pressure fron the sides of the tank stop it opening up as I assume it will be a tightish fit. If you are worried why not one turn of gaffer tape round it before fitting the tank.
if you want to keep it original use insulating tape............
I still don't understand why the slit is in the top and in the thick bit. It would have seemed more obvious to put the slit in the bottom in the thin bit
Les
Rules are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of the wise
clive wrote:................ Won't the pressure fron the sides of the tank stop it opening up as I assume it will be a tightish fit. If you are worried why not one turn of gaffer tape round it before fitting the tank.
if you want to keep it original use insulating tape............
I still don't understand why the slit is in the top and in the thick bit. It would have seemed more obvious to put the slit in the bottom in the thin bit
clive wrote:................ Won't the pressure fron the sides of the tank stop it opening up as I assume it will be a tightish fit. If you are worried why not one turn of gaffer tape round it before fitting the tank.
if you want to keep it original use insulating tape............
I still don't understand why the slit is in the top and in the thick bit. It would have seemed more obvious to put the slit in the bottom in the thin bit
It may be difficult to fit, if the slit was in the thin bit. If the slit was in the thin bit, to open up the rubber, it would make a larger radius on the inside, making it difficult to fit on the tube. Unless there was a V cut out on the outer of the rubber, which would make it thinner on the bend. I had the same problem heat bending thick acrylic. Bending thick material resulted in a larger radius. A larger radius would need the approx. thickness of the material added to get round the bend. e.g to bend 100 m.m. 5 m.m. thick length at 90 degrees in the middle, with 50 m.m each side, would need 105 m.m. length. If a 3 m.m. wide and 3 m.m. deep V groove is cut on the inside of the bend, you would only need 102 m.m. also achieve a much smaller rad. / tighter bend. Perhaps this is also why the hole in the rubber was oval. When opened to fit on the tube, it still left a hole the diameter size of the tube it fitted on. To prove this, glue up a rubber and cut the thin bit. Then try to fit it.
clive wrote:................ Won't the pressure fron the sides of the tank stop it opening up as I assume it will be a tightish fit. If you are worried why not one turn of gaffer tape round it before fitting the tank.
if you want to keep it original use insulating tape............
I still don't understand why the slit is in the top and in the thick bit. It would have seemed more obvious to put the slit in the bottom in the thin bit
Don't try to understand just do as you're told! Trust me I've fitted 3 of the buggers now. Next you'll be asking how to check the oil level in a 63 tank with the baffle in the way.
I still don't understand why the slit is in the top and in the thick bit. It would have seemed more obvious to put the slit in the bottom in the thin bit
Well I did not understand a word of Rob's explanation but I think he is right. Cut the small side and you have to distort the rubber too much to get it over the frame. Cut the big side and you just have to flex it and assuming you have the right tank, THE TANK ITSELF STOPS IT OPENING UP AGAIN.
I still don't understand why the slit is in the top and in the thick bit. It would have seemed more obvious to put the slit in the bottom in the thin bit
Well I did not understand a word of Rob's explanation but I think he is right. Cut the small side and you have to distort the rubber too much to get it over the frame. Cut the big side and you just have to flex it and assuming you have the right tank, THE TANK ITSELF STOPS IT OPENING UP AGAIN.
Spot on Clive,
Took me a while to get my head round it, when I switched from wood working to machining plastics. I keep getting these drawings where dimensions just did not add up. I thought they were errors. Then it was explained to me the extra material was to get round bends. e.g. with 3 mm thickness material, add 3 mm for every heat bend. But this 3 mm was never shown between other dimensions on the drawings. So overall lengths, were longer than dimensions shown, when they were all added up. The boss said, in future I will show the bend material added on. When you make samples, you also show them and I wont have to keep altering your rough notes and drawings when I draw them proper.
