Kickstart Lever

Information relating to the Matchless G80 or AJS Model 18 500cc Heavyweight.
56G80S
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by 56G80S »

Well, lied. went and took the bolt out just now and not PM!

13 "peaks" to half an inch so looks like 26TPI. Couldn't get the stinking lever off despit using all the usual tricks. Couldn't find puller.

However, when tapped fully onto the shaft (so the shaft is just slightly proud of the outside part of the lever) it's a tight as you could wish. It's also quite close to the gearbox body but not so close that a thin socket wouldn't fit. OOOpps, forgot to try the bolt in the sockets I have (Whit/BS, AF and metric is all I've got).

But I have a feeling I've found the answer. I noticed something I hadn't before, which is that there are marks on the plain part of the bolt like it's been entering into the lever too far and coming up against the threads in the lever and cuttng into that. In other words, I've not been tightening the lever at all! Next opportunity I'm going to put some washers under the head of the bolt slightly more than the depth of the witness marks on the plain part of the bolt. The total length of the bolt under the head is 1-1/2" and the plain part runs for the first 7/8" of that with the witness marks taking up 1/4". I make it that would leave only 3/8" engagement; about as much as the width of a nut. My feeling is that for this application it could do with more.

So scrap my previous remark, I'll go and get the appropriate bolt(s) but with a longer shank after the plain part as I can always shorten these even if I have to use the small Dremel type disc cutter on a high tensile bolt. Get some nuts as well.

To be fair, the supplied bolt look good and although the hex head is chromed, the rest is so shiny I would think it's stainless as it's been on for at least two and probably more years.

Thanks for your interest and patience and I'll see how I get on.

I'd have been nicely placed to set of for the IJR if it wasn't for the one day I actually usually go into work falling wrongly (do a lot on remote access).

Johnny B
Mick D
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by Mick D »

Hi

Sounds like a result :)

I wouldn't use a stainless steel bolt there, they are more prone to stretch, I'd go for an 8.8, (grade 8), high tensile one.

You can check if your bolt is 300 series stainless steel by seeing if it's attracted to a magnet - if it's stainless it won't be attracted.

Regards Mick
alanengineer
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by alanengineer »

the original kickstart levers were lighter in section to the current replacements and i think had a slot that went further into the lever part to allow more bending to allow the splines to be clamped down on. with the current replacement levers, you really have to use some effort to clamp the lever to the splines. Get a good bolt.
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cfaber
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by cfaber »

Got any pictures of the fitment issues here? Also, have you checked the opposing side of the lever to see if it's cracked?
Fix it until it's broken!

Otherwise how will
anything get done?
56G80S
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by 56G80S »

Thanks for the input all of you.

I bought two high tensile bolts from Hawk Fasteners at Brunel Road Skippers Lane Industrial Estate; they're always very helpful even though there's not much in it for a high volume industrial supplier. I got 2 3/8" UNF bolts and nyloc nuts. That was the best they could do working off the "original" bolt I took in with me.

I eventually got the lever off and the splines on the shaft are fine. Those on the lever not so good in the inboard side closest to the gearbox and across near the slot at the bottom. I'll post pics when i have more time.

I ran the new (same shank but longer thread) bolt into the lever but it pulled up way short of where it should. It seems that the thread must've been damaged. I didn't have the relevant tap in my collection (inherited mostly from Mum) so as I had two bolts just eased it through anyway. No damaged to bolt, sourced a washer from the "washers" tibiscuit tin. Cleaned everything up first with wd40 and then with liberal brushing with meths. Applied some studlock to the splines and tapped on with soft mallet - not without difficulty even with a screwdriver wedged in the slot.

Tightened up and at the end the thread seemed soft so put the nut on the end of the bolt and tightened that, then back to the head of the bolt and it it tightened up nicely?! Re-tightened the nut and left for a while.

And all seems good. Apart from being the sad chap I examined the fit with a magnifying glas and the splines match perfectly opposite the slot but near the slot they clearly don't. But all's solid and I can stand on the lever waiting the seconds to go by until I get past compression. So using the valve lifter it'll be fine.

| now also know why I discarded the AMOC lever - the folding foot piece fell off during a trip back from work (about 40 miles). It was in my collection of U/S levers and the splines are perfect. I may check if the folding foot piece from the current lever will fit or the one off the other folding lever. The only thing with the latter is it's not retained by a hex nut or bolt but has a circular retaining collar with a hole like its held by a roll pin. If I can't solve that I'll just buy a new lever altogether.

Perhaps see the summer out and do all of that when I refit the Burman box and refurbish the AMC box.

Really grateful for the advice, particularly about the high tensile bolt.

See you at the Jampot.

Johnny B
Mick D
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by Mick D »

Hi

3/8" UNF, (24 TPI), is pretty close to 3/8" BSC, (26 TPI), I suspect the original thread would have been BSC and someone has forced a UNF bolt to fit. Any chance you could post a photo looking directly onto the end of the splined shaft, I'm curious regarding you description of the fit.

As long as the fit stays sound you shouldn't cause any more damage but if it loosens you will eventually damage the male spline - I'd be looking for a more permanent solution.

Regards Mick
56G80S
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by 56G80S »

Mick

Out for a ride round to Loftus and back last night, only about 30 miles. All good.

Have posted a pic in Photos, Classic Road Machines, Kickstart lever AMC gearbox but it won't be up on the site until cleared.

Johnny B
Mick D
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by Mick D »

Hi

The kick start lever spline does not match that of the shaft, (as you suspected), the shaft is also damaged, (arrowed).
56G80S Kickstart.png
The damage on the shaft can probably be recovered with a needle file but I'd be sourcing a correct / matching lever as soon as possible. Is your other lever a better fit?

Regards Mick
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56G80S
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by 56G80S »

Hi Mick

That fault on the shaft has been there for the last 40 years. It's a little delve of only about 2/3mm length in a line across the machine. From memory the other lever is a good fit. I'll have to take a look at transplanting a folding part onto that lever!

I'm a bit more sanguine about the current arrangement as the material of the shaft seems to be extraordinarily hard and robust much more so than the lever material; nonetheless it does need sorting sooner rather than later. I should've done something about it before now as the lever that is on now has been there for at least two years and all wobbly during that time.

Johnny B
56G80S
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Re: Kickstart Lever

Post by 56G80S »

Mick

Humble pie here. The botched lever was getting quite wobbly after trip to Lochearnhead and I removed it. It's shot.

Off to the blacksmith to see if he can transplant the top of the current knackered lever onto the one I referred to previously (from the Club) that is a great fit smooth onto the splines but the folding lever fell off. I did notice that the width Club lever, measured along the shaft is noticeably wider than the other lever so that it fully engages the splines which are inboard of the groove in the shaft where the bolt fits through.

If can get that transplant done I may replace the bolt as advised earlier on in this thread.

Cheers

Johnny B
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