Speedometer removal?

[Pharisee]

Two different speedos shown here, 54 type and 55 type fitted in the headlamp, the latter has a flanged bezzle. Sounds like your speedo may had been stuck in with mastic and rubber seal. If you do this, you may need to fit a wire where the speedo bracket fits, and run to earth for the light to earth.

Same speedo... two different bezels
You're right about the electrical connection. I ran a separate earth/ground wire to one of the nuts that secured the "U" clamp to the speedo body.

[Rob Harknett]

So you used the old 54 speedo in the headlamp, which fitted on a T bracket, U clamp used on the 555 type headlamp may not had fitted correct, So the speedo just got jammed in with mastic and rubber grommet. You could make up a U clamp, but the top part may need to curve to miss cable or light or stick with the sticky stuff and earth wire to earth it.

[Robdog]

Thanks all. I was able to extract the speedo by partially removing the rubber from inside the nacelle. Once I had the rubber pulled away a third of the way around it was easy to push out the speedo. Now I just need to fix the clever mechanism. Speedo needle advances but will not drop back when slowing. What ever catches the advance gears is not releasing.

[robcurrie]

My speedo did the same thing after excess oil in the cable worked its way up into the mechanism. I cleaned off the oil with spirits and it cured the problem.

Rob C

[Robdog]

I'll give that a try. Should the speedo workings be basically "dry" or should it be lightly lubed with thin oil?

[Rob Harknett]

Cable needs lubrication with oil, not to much, also shoot some grease in the rear wheel speedo drive nipple. Clive may come along with more expert speedo advice.

[clive]

Cable needs lubrication with oil, not to much, also shoot some grease in the rear wheel speedo drive nipple. Clive may come along with more expert speedo advice.

Dont oil the cable, pull it out and grease all but the last 18 inches as the oil will climb into the speedo through Archimedes Screw action. Guess light oil applied very lightly might work the same so long as left unoiled the last section.

The main thing if you are willing to try to work on the speedo is to ensure the slipping clutch in the speedo is not oiled, it needs to be dry see part 89 the camshaft assembly. http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Spe ... _Views.pdfIts the part at the bottom that needs to be dry. If you do decide to give it a go, other than washing it all in petrol, is to be aware there are more parts in a speedo than in your engine (counting the bigend as one part!) and it helps if you have experience of clock repairs. Having said that I taught myself, by trial and error, how to do it in about 5 years but the speedos were only £5 each then! Some of the faces can be cleaned, some of the paint on them comes off if you simply look at it too hard, let alone touch it.

Expert advice provided

PS the company advertised on the exploded view has been out of business for a while I think, they used to supply me when I did the repairs, cannot get the parts now.

[Rob Harknett]

I was aware oil could creep up cable , why I said not too much. When I have replaced an inner wire, I have used nothing more than an oily rag.

[robcurrie]

That attachment could be construed as advertising, Clive.

Rob C