handlebar grip size and levers that move!

[ma120990]

Hi all, hopefully an easy one to answer. Am looking to replace the original and I must admit rather worn handlebar grips for some nice new ones. Not being by the bike presently, just wondered what diameter the handlebar should be. I see a lot of 7/8ths 22mm but just want to make sure I get the right size.. I guess fitting is the usual technique, cut the old hard ones off and apply a bit of soap to ease the new ones on?

The other query is that the brake and clutch levers twist on the bars a little easier than I would like. The screws seem to be tight so was wondering if anyone had a tip to just make things a little resistant to twisting. I did think about a little spot of bicycle handlebar tape of the fabric kind. Just want them a little tighter for my own peace of mind. I need to move things around a bit anyhow as the horn push and dipper are between the grips and brake/clutch levers.. again just not to my liking if I am honest.

[Rob Harknett]

You should find most of our bike bars are 1" prewar, 7/8" post war. Make sure you do pick up a pair of grips. One fits the bar 7/8" dia bar, the other fits the twist grip which will be approx. 1" inside dia. Horn & dip are not usually between the grip and lever. As will be seen in the instruction book for your bike.
There are aftermarket alternatives, types of which I am sure you have come across.

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[ma120990]

Cheers, the grips are still there but are more like bakelite.

Must admit I hadn't fiddled with the layout but at the last run up all the switches/levers looked like they had been fitted by someone who hand't a clue about bikes. I guess uncle might have shifted things inboard when he used it off road (prevent damage should he have dropped it) etc.

[clive]

I would advise against setting the levers so the are really tight on the handlebars. Should you have a tumble or go over the bars because of a SMIDSY you don't want to be gashed by a lever. Of course ball end levers help but are non standard on most of our bikes. I try to set them so they don't move in use but will still move if hit hard.

[ma120990]

Agree with you Clive, these are just a smidge too easy to move (e.g. I can twist them with one hand when sat on the bike) and I feel they need to be just a little more resistance. My bike must have been modded at some point as I already have (old) ball ended levers..

[Rob Harknett]

I had a lever or something go straight through my right arm, when a car pulled out in front of me. Ball end levers may had not penetrated. My arm was to had been amputated, ..... long story... Too late now, I did regain the use of my arm , that was 58 years ago. It is now giving problems in my old age.

[ma120990]

Am quite happy with the ball end levers, a little less chrome on them than when they were new I am sure but certainly have no intention to replace for the pointy ones. Mind I did find the originals on my dads old bench. Pretty much rusted away. Perhaps my uncle had an experience with the old ones and hence that's why the ball ends are on there..

[Mick D]

Hi

Two ways to tighten loose levers, (which will be less visible than tape):

File a little off of the mating surfaces of the two clamps

Glue a section of shim steel, (feeler gauge), to one or both halves of the clamp.

Regards Mick