Clutch drag

itma · Post by **itma** » Mon May 22, 2006 3:38 pm

I realise that no point changing if its part of the overall effect.
It looks to be well enough put together on the mechanicals side, you just have to work out the oil leak yourself.

Why is it so apparently sunny in Denmark, while we, so much further south are being drowned and frozen?Edited by - itma on 22 May 2006 2:43:08 PM

Lassenc · Post by **Lassenc** » Mon May 22, 2006 4:04 pm

I got the picture at a good time, it was cloudy, but the sun came though as I was shooting the pictures

I like the chaincase I have now, I'm able to adjust clutch without removing the whole outer case

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Mon May 22, 2006 8:56 pm

Well, who ever did it seems to have made a good job. With the fairly close pitch of the screws I would think that silicone 'instant gasket' would do the job, making sure you go round all the holes so the oil does not leak out around the screws. The later AMC cases had the removeable dome, preceded by a smaller version just to access the adjuster. Perhaps Tom could translate if I'm not clear.

Just seen all the photo's, fine looking bike, not to my taste though.Edited by - Biscuit on 22 May 2006 7:59:22 PM

Lassenc · Post by **Lassenc** » Mon May 22, 2006 9:38 pm

Will try that then

TommoT · Post by **TommoT** » Mon May 22, 2006 11:53 pm

Lasse,
the chaincase looks surprisingly similar to an original item, with just the wider edges, presumably welded on.

There seems to be enough contact area between the edges of the two chaincase halves for ordinary silicone to work. But still the edges must be straight and clean for it all to work.

Basically what the others are saying is that this is a modified chaincase so no one can give you a tried and tested solution, you're a bit alone on this one! But don't worry, a bit of hard work and some thinking will get it sorted. And by the way the neoprene T-profile that we have been discussing will not work in this case.

Let's hear how it goes!

Edited by - TommoT on 22 May 2006 10:56:47 PM

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Mon May 22, 2006 11:57 pm

'In this case', very droll Tom!!!!!!

Lassenc · Post by **Lassenc** » Tue May 23, 2006 11:14 am

Tom:

Sjovt du også kommer fra Esbjerg

Lassenc · Post by **Lassenc** » Tue May 23, 2006 10:45 pm

Just to get back to what the topic originally was about.

I don't quite get this part.

"Then screw the pressure plate centre screw in as far as it will go until resistance is felt and then back it off one complete turn before locking it with the nut."

Can anyone supply with an exploded view?

I'm happy with the lever travel at the moment.

Shouldn't I just turn the screws with the springs under then 180 degrees out and see out it works?

Taken in mind that it runs true of course.

Any special tools I need?

TommoT · Post by **TommoT** » Tue May 23, 2006 11:42 pm

Lasse,
the centre screw, in the middle of the pressure plate, is for adjusting the gap between the actuating rod and the actuating mechanism and the pressure plate. The screws with springs under them are for adjusting the force with which the plates are pressed together when the clutch is released.

Just a few words in Danish again:
skruen i midten bruger du til at justere spillerummet mellem den stang der går hele vejen igennem akslen og over til aktiveringsmekanismen. De skruer der har en fjeder under sig bruger du til at regulere fjederspændingen, altså hvor hårdt koblingspladerne trykkes sammen. Og de skal som du skriver justeres i niveau med trykpladen. Herefter checker du om den løber lige og justerer hvis nødvendigt. Centerskruen og fjederskruerne har altså helt forskellige funktioner.

Keep up the good work!

Lassenc · Post by **Lassenc** » Wed May 24, 2006 7:24 am

Er det noget du har lyst til at hjælpe mig med her første gang?