Hi All, can anyone supply me with a close up picture showing the fuel pipes from the petrol tank to the carb?
Mine is a 1953 AJS18S with the original carb
Thanks is advance
Gary
Fuel pipes to carb
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Re: Fuel pipes to carb
I've no idea if it's 'correct' but does this help?
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Re: Fuel pipes to carb
The parts book sometimes have a good clue
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Re: Fuel pipes to carb
Good point Alan. As I thought, the factory used rigid steel pipes.alanengineer wrote:The parts book sometimes have a good clue
Pages 47 & 49 here:
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... s_List.pdf
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Re: Fuel pipes to carb
You will see in the parts list page 47, Taps should be push off/on type. Two types of copper pipes are shown. One is a pipe that fits above the carb connecting the main RH tap to reserve LH tap.
A T piece is fitted in this pipe, taking a U bent pipe to the bottom of the float chamber. Spriddler's set - up uses a pipe running under the carb linking the taps with a T piece to fit the pipe to the float chamber. Note the mixture of copper & rubber pipes. Also lever type taps. To make all copper pipes you will need tools to bend the pipes, and solder the bits together. Vibration can fracture copper pipes. Spriddlers set up uses rubber pipes that will absorb vibration. You should find your oil pipe from the crank case to the top end is split and joined with a bit of rubber pipe to absorb vibration. You may like to copy Spridllers petrol pipe set up, it should prove easier to make up. Also avoid problems of fractured pipes for ever needing repairs. Running the pipe linking the taps above the carb hides that pipe for a neater appearance.
A T piece is fitted in this pipe, taking a U bent pipe to the bottom of the float chamber. Spriddler's set - up uses a pipe running under the carb linking the taps with a T piece to fit the pipe to the float chamber. Note the mixture of copper & rubber pipes. Also lever type taps. To make all copper pipes you will need tools to bend the pipes, and solder the bits together. Vibration can fracture copper pipes. Spriddlers set up uses rubber pipes that will absorb vibration. You should find your oil pipe from the crank case to the top end is split and joined with a bit of rubber pipe to absorb vibration. You may like to copy Spridllers petrol pipe set up, it should prove easier to make up. Also avoid problems of fractured pipes for ever needing repairs. Running the pipe linking the taps above the carb hides that pipe for a neater appearance.
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Re: Fuel pipes to carb
Thanks everyone, think I will try and have mine setup like Spriddlers picture, seems a neat solution, but I will have to make sure that the reserve pipe does not clash with the horn
Gary
Gary
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Re: Fuel pipes to carb
You should be able to find S/H bits of carb copper piping already bent for the U bend to the float chamber and 90 degree bend to clear the horn the rest rubber pipping plus metal fittings.Woodland wrote:Thanks everyone, think I will try and have mine setup like Spriddlers picture, seems a neat solution, but I will have to make sure that the reserve pipe does not clash with the horn
Gary
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Re: Fuel pipes to carb
Here's my variation on a theme .....
If I recall, I got the replacement taps, elbows, T piece and hose from AMC Spares (so handy that Steve is only ~5 miles from me!) and the stainless crimps from a local hydraulic systems supplier.
Seems to work and is unobtrusive although if I were doing it again I'd ditch the remainder of the original U tube that attaches to the carb and replace it with another elbow and connect the hose directly to it.
Alan
If I recall, I got the replacement taps, elbows, T piece and hose from AMC Spares (so handy that Steve is only ~5 miles from me!) and the stainless crimps from a local hydraulic systems supplier.
Seems to work and is unobtrusive although if I were doing it again I'd ditch the remainder of the original U tube that attaches to the carb and replace it with another elbow and connect the hose directly to it.
Alan
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1953 AJS 16MS, 1939 BSA 250 and a 1/3 scale Sopwith Triplane but that's another story .....