Clutch lever
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Clutch lever
Is anyone using levers with 1 1/16 pivots. How do you get on with them. Fitted gt grips and can't get full lift on the clutch. But I want to keep the grips if I can.
- dave16mct
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Re: Clutch lever
Don't fit them. You'll need 2 hands to pull the clutch in. Have you adjusted the clutch properly. The pushrod shouls only have 1/2 a turn clearance. With say 1/16"-1/8" at the lever, surely that must be enough? What are GT grips by the way?
Cheers Dave.
Cheers Dave.
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Re: Clutch lever
They're the thicker grips. So the clutch lever has now lost that last bit of travel. It's dragging when the engine is running and in gear. Adjustment is correct.
- Rob Harknett
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Re: Clutch lever
Could still drag if the springs are not adjust correctly, start by going by the book. Then watch when you operate the clutch. Springs may not all be the same tension. So adjust them so the plates open & separate evenly all round. If that is correct, I cannot see if adjusted correct, you need to pull the lever all the way in to the bars.
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Re: Clutch lever
That was all done and the clutch runs as true as it can. Worked fine with the original grips. And didn't need to meet the bar. But these grips are so much thicker, only needs a little bit more. Just wondered if anyone was using the lever with the longer pivot. If it's usable, I can get one. I've never been one for moaning about a heavy clutch.
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Re: Clutch lever
Hi
Assuming you currently have 7/8" levers fitted, fitting an 1 1/6" clutch lever will increase the effort to operate by 21.5%, (assuming your hand position remains the same on both levers).
You could get an idea of what the effort would be like by moving your hand 20% closer to the pivot of your existing lever.
Regards Mick
Assuming you currently have 7/8" levers fitted, fitting an 1 1/6" clutch lever will increase the effort to operate by 21.5%, (assuming your hand position remains the same on both levers).
You could get an idea of what the effort would be like by moving your hand 20% closer to the pivot of your existing lever.
Regards Mick
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Re: Clutch lever
I only changed to the 7/8" levers early last year. The others were on when I got the Matchless and used them for over 40 years and put up with dreading heavy traffic and ending long runs (between 150 - 495 miles) with aching wrist.
Changing to the 7/8" is a joy. I wouldn't want to go back.
Your choice though.
Johnny B
Changing to the 7/8" is a joy. I wouldn't want to go back.
Your choice though.
Johnny B
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Re: Clutch lever
On my '54 G3LS I have deeply cushioned grips with 7/8" levers no problem. Are you sure you have adjusted the clutch correctly? (I'm not referring to the cable as this does not adjust the clutch).
I once made up some prototype dual levers (clutch & front brake lever on same pivot) for a special/experimental project and the end of one lever was stopped by the thick grip before full travel so I cut away a small piece of the grip back to the 'bar just in the area where the lever would have touched it.
I once made up some prototype dual levers (clutch & front brake lever on same pivot) for a special/experimental project and the end of one lever was stopped by the thick grip before full travel so I cut away a small piece of the grip back to the 'bar just in the area where the lever would have touched it.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'
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Re: Clutch lever
I had time to today to have a quick look. I took off the grip and run it up. Dropped it into gear and no drive to the wheel. Took it up the road and jumped off. Bike started to creep slightly. So back to the clutch to see what has changed. I will be riding this bloody thing this year if it kills me.
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Re: Clutch lever
So it seems it's not the fatter grip causing the problem.
The clutch basket nut could be gradually coming undone.
The clutch basket nut could be gradually coming undone.
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Which taken at the flood............'