Alloy chaincase removal

[JEAN-NOEL]

I agree with Mick, but angling the tube upward is difficult :
1 - almost impossible to hide (circa 15 mm OD)
2 - the oïl mist will mess around the carb and mag area...

Regarding the brass union, I choosed a 12 mm one, barbed on each side and a thin wall clear tube 12 mm ID, glued.

To avoid a leak around the main shaft I have fitted an X ring 24.99 ID*32.05 OD * 3.53 mm. It fits perfectly the mainshaft (28.5 mm) and there is enough room between the inner chaincase half and the clutch hub. Due to the weather and other issues, I don't rode the bike long enough to see if it is a real improvement. But if it doesn't do good, it can't be worse !

[1608]

Just a quick tip, in case you didn't notice, there are two shorter cover bolts that need to be fitted in the correct holes in the cover. One is adjacent to the top run of the rear chain and the second is along the bottom adjacent to the centre stand boss on the lower frame. Has anyone else had problems with these two bolts. On my G12 one can foul the rear chain and the second will not tighten up before bottoming out on the centre stand boss.

[dave16mct]

I'm sure they should all be the same length. Maybe the counterbores are a bit deeper on the offending holes?
Dave.

[Andy G]

Hmm, something to check at the weekend methinks, pretty sure mine were all same but...

[MalcW]

All the bolts are the same length on my 1960 bike, and on a mate's 500 twin.