Oh Now The "Fun" Really Begins w/pic-G15CSR

Information relating to the Matchless G15 or AJS Model 33 750cc twin. This also includes the G15 Mk II and the G15/45
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Gerard Harrison
Posts: 72
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:45 am
Location: Nassau USA

Oh Now The "Fun" Really Begins w/pic-G15CSR

Post by Gerard Harrison »

It is bolted together now, and is no longer the conversation piece on the living room coffee table

A few questions on final assembly:

Roadholder Front End:

Top Nuts Tightened, tubes fully seated in the upper triple/fork yoke crown.

Front wheel held w/legs and the triple was twisted to and fro by the handlebars

Front axle/spindle nut snugged, not yet torqued

Rolled and braked the bike to plunge and align/square the fork tubes and sliders.

Fork yoke pinch bolts then torqued to spec

Front wheel back off the ground

Back to Axle/spindle nut for final torque to 60 ft/lbs (?)

Things are starting to bind as I close in on 60 ft/lbs and the wheel's movement is becoming constricted

Should I have tightened the left slider axle/spindle pinch bolt before attempting to torque the right side axle nut???

Is the axle nut the last element to tighten in the sequence of events?

No where is this spelled out in any of my "supporting" literature

Other issues are several,

one of which is involving rear wheel, I had to remove the speedo drive/gearbox and just use the drive's center spacer on the spindle spacer assembly to get the wheel to turn. The drive when mounted is not sufficiently distanced from the hub cover and locks up against it. So perhaps I have an incorrect or worn down spacer behind the lock ring (the danger of using Prior Owner parts and assuming they are right or not somehow buggered)...or the repro hub cover is stamped wrong...and since most repro parts these days are little more than approximations of the originals it is possible that it's too concave and should have a shallower dish.

The biggest hurdle I will have is how tight the rebuilt engine is. It was done to spec with original Hepolite pistons and proper overbore/end-gap/clearances...or so I am told but I am jumping on the kick start to get it to turn....I am 210 lbs and I feel like I am trying to turn a bike in sub-freezing weather with 90 weight gear oil in the moving parts

The joy never ceases with this one





Edited by - Gerard Harrison on 01 May 2011 06:48:39 AM
g80csp11
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Joined: Mon Jan 01, 1990 12:00 am
Location: WEST SUSSEX UK

Oh Now The "Fun" Really Begins w/pic-G15CSR

Post by g80csp11 »

It's not unusual to find that the engine is difficult to kick over , There are times that I struggle,(flat topped commando pistons). much more difficult that any AMC twin that I've got.
My advice is make sure that your folding kick start is in good condition as I've seen several nasty accients if you slip while kicking it over .
I know several G15/ N15 owners that always stuglle to kick theres over

After all that it's worth it , provided you can tolerate the parallel twin vibration, and in your case teh noise without any silencers .
ianselva
Posts: 336
Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 10:45 pm
Location: OXON UK

Oh Now The "Fun" Really Begins w/pic-G15CSR

Post by ianselva »

I would say that you must tighten the axle nut before tightening up the clamp

Ian
Gerard Harrison
Posts: 72
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:45 am
Location: Nassau USA

Oh Now The "Fun" Really Begins w/pic-G15CSR

Post by Gerard Harrison »

The open pipes are a temporary situation...the spec mufflers for this bike are about 750 dollars U.S..

Trans was rebuilt, the kick start shaft was replaced as the old one had a crack at the pawl hole (consistent with everything else wrong with nearly every part on this machine)

The folding pedal on the kick start arm needs a refresh as it is at a slight but potentially bad angle when opened so it is an invitation to pain if the machine lashes back and the foot comes off the pedal

and it does in fact have flat top 9:1 pistons rather than the 7.5:1 originals. The resistance though has less to do with the compression stroke...it is throughout the entire revolution
Gerard Harrison
Posts: 72
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:45 am
Location: Nassau USA

Oh Now The "Fun" Really Begins w/pic-G15CSR

Post by Gerard Harrison »

quote:
I would say that you must tighten the axle nut before tightening up the clamp

Ian


I was thinking this would be the likely answer as tightening the slider pinch bolt first would pull the left leg inward and hence off its natural center-line of travel as the spindle nut was tightened.....

oh crap!!....this still leaves me with a binding Brake Backing Plate & Hub issue at near 60 ft/lbs...or possibly it is binding up the dust cover arrangement on the left side

I fear this machine will go through some measure of disassembly/re-assembly as I sort through detail issues like clearances etc.
Gerard Harrison
Posts: 72
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:45 am
Location: Nassau USA

Oh Now The "Fun" Really Begins w/pic-G15CSR

Post by Gerard Harrison »

Well we got to the bottom of the tight motor situation yesterday.

Seems there was an extra washer on the end of the intermediate gear pinion in the timing chest.

The assembly calls for a bushing, a pinion and a washer behind the gear & sprocket cluster.

My rebuilder left an extra washer he had from the two engines we used for the rebuild on the end of the intermediate assembly.

So when I buttoned down the timing cover that washer provided the interference

Once the timing cover was removed to review everything the motor loosened up considerably
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