AJS 14 CSR 250

[Richtalk]

Am rebuilding 250 lightweight that has been in bits since 1985. I like a challenge!

A few questions if anyone can help please:

1. How do I remove the outer driveside crankcase bearing and release stator? Have tried a puller but looks pretty solidly in place.

2. The auto advance unit (part no. 043114) is missing. Any idea where I can find one?

3. The alternator (or generator?) stator and rotor are also missing. Same question as 2 above.

4. Ref 2 and 3 above. In the John Allen booklet about this model he suggests modifying to a 12v system and use an electronic ignition system. Has anyone done this and what is involved?

4. The oil sump drain plug thread is stripped in crankcase. I am sure I've read that there is a filler that can be used and retap thread OR has anyone bored out and inserted a sleeve OR any other thoughts welcome?

Thanks in hope.

Richtalk

[cbranni]

1. I take it the bearings are in the case, if so set oven to about 150c bung the case in until spit hot, remove case run to shed and slap/drop/bang case onto two bits of solid timber and the bearings should drop out. Fit new bearings the same way, if you are not keen on a smelly oven you can of course locally heat the case using a blow torch.
2. They do come up on ebay
3. Stator and rotor club spares may stock them or Paul Goff, I know nothing about electronic ignition
4. I would drill n tap a bigger size and get a insert made then use a standard sump plug, may even be tempted to weld the insert in for good measure. I can't remember what size the sump plug is and where it fits, but I will check tomorrow to see if it's feasable.

Colin
(at a low ebb used wrong hardener with lacquer )

[corbal]

I agree with Colin on removing bearings from crankcase. I used a plumbers blowtorch heating locally around the bearing housing and removed the outer bearing easily. On my 1960 model 8 the stator is released by unscrewing the hexagon headed vent tube. This devise was modified on later models.

There was a used alternator and a stator for sale fairly recently on e-bay and they do come up periodically. Set it as a personal search item (ie AJS/Matchless Alternator/Stator)
and each time you sign in you will get a list with pictures of any potential items/

Good Luck

Alan

[bunners]

Personal search item on ebay? How do you do that?

[bigwol]

Personal search item on ebay? How do you do that?

Type in the item (such as Matchless G12) and category (Cars, Motorcycles & Vehicles) then click the "save search" button and leave "email alerts" ticked. You will get notifications of any listing which match your search. Simples.

[cbranni]

The two drain plugs are same size, 21/32 x 19tpi (the 19 is a bit of a guess) so after looking at a crankcase if I were in your shoes I would get an alluminium insert turned up same dims as the original drain plug but forget the hexagon and make that round, drill n tap 1/4 bsp and tig weld it in.

Colin

[Phamiltoneddy]

You will find an article on 6V to 12V conversion on this website by following the path Articles/Technical Tips/Electrics/Lightweight 6V to 12V Conversion.

If you wish to convert to electronic ignition, I suggest you contact motorcycle electrics guru Al Osborn of AO Services, Thetford, Norfolk. He should be able to supply a Boyer ignition kit that will, with modification, suit the AMC lightweights. The kit will include a transistor box, a 3" Boyer pickup plate that fits in place of the standard contact breaker/capacitor mounting plate and a Boyer rotor. The rotor must be modified. This is because the camshaft on the lightweights has a male taper and so does the Boyer rotor. The solution is to machine off the taper on the rotor and fit a small spacer between rotor and camshaft. When fitting the modified rotor, you must retain concentricity of the rotor in relation to the pickup plate, make sure that is firm and ensure that the front of the rotor does not touch the rear of the plate when fitted.

Al Osborn may be able to supply a suitable spacer. I found the one he supplied me a tad short so had my own spacer machined in stainless steel. Outside diameter 16.00 mm Inside diameter 11.00mm Thickness 13.25 mm. The measurements for your own machine might differ slightly.

[Richtalk]

Cheers. V useful info.

Richtalk