Quite, but what else can you do when it needs to come off?Ozmadman wrote:Must admit, if you decide to remove the adv/rtd unit it is a bit of a bugger getting it back in the right place, just trial and error and patience is the order of the day..Janet wrote: lining up the adv/ret unit properly was the hard part of the procedure. I'd put it on according to the drawing and then it would move. Finally, after several days, when I'd got it to stay where I'd put it, the 'fine tuning' was relatively easy.
Timing and carb set up
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Janet
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Re: Timing and carb set up
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56G80S
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Re: Timing and carb set up
Janet
I have one of the tools you have and used it in the opening behind the barrels on a Trumpet twin, as there were notches in the crankshaft for the purpose (unless memory fails me, it was a long time ago).
The problem with this tool in the plug hole on our machines is that it's at an angle and can jam and not necessarily give the most accurate reading. I use Neville's approach but have kept the wire shorter and made a couple of squiggles at the end to stop it falling down the hole.
It's so narrow that the wire can be kept perpendicular.
Johnny B
I have one of the tools you have and used it in the opening behind the barrels on a Trumpet twin, as there were notches in the crankshaft for the purpose (unless memory fails me, it was a long time ago).
The problem with this tool in the plug hole on our machines is that it's at an angle and can jam and not necessarily give the most accurate reading. I use Neville's approach but have kept the wire shorter and made a couple of squiggles at the end to stop it falling down the hole.
It's so narrow that the wire can be kept perpendicular.
Johnny B
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Janet
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Re: Timing and carb set up
Er, yes, I do know the hole is at an angle. The plug holes on all of my bikes are at an angle. I've not had one jam yet and it's more accurate than me trying to hold a piece of wire vertical in the hole with it touching the top of the piston while attempting to move the back wheel and, of course, I need to be able to see the mark showing when it has moved the appropriate distance. Sometimes I have to accept 'near enough' because I'm not as adept as the rest of you.
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56G80S
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Re: Timing and carb set up
It must be me, I used one of those tools and it felt like I was turning the wheel too hard and not getting any movement of the rod with the scale on it.
Just goes to show, there's not always a "right way" just what works for you.
Johnny B
Just goes to show, there's not always a "right way" just what works for you.
Johnny B
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1608
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Re: Timing and carb set up
It seems to me that you expect the engine to run or tick over with just the timing being set regardless of the carb setting.. You are probably setting the timing correctly, but the carb also needs to be set up correctly. Until both are set correctly the bike wont tick over or run properly. Set the timing as per the book and regardless of how it will or wont tick over THEN set the carb up. No matter how well the timing is set it wont run right until you then set the carb.
To set the carb up from start, ensure that the fuel is free to flow but not flood and that the needle is at the right height and that the carb fixing flange is in good order and makes an air tight joint. Then set the throttle stop screw to give a reasonably fast tick-over. Once the engine has warmed up slow the tick-over down enough to just give a reasonable engine speed and adjust the air /mixture screw to give the fastest tick over and then slow the engine speed by the throttle stop again and so on. The air mixture screw will only affect the tick-over or idle and not the wider throttle openings.
To set the carb up from start, ensure that the fuel is free to flow but not flood and that the needle is at the right height and that the carb fixing flange is in good order and makes an air tight joint. Then set the throttle stop screw to give a reasonably fast tick-over. Once the engine has warmed up slow the tick-over down enough to just give a reasonable engine speed and adjust the air /mixture screw to give the fastest tick over and then slow the engine speed by the throttle stop again and so on. The air mixture screw will only affect the tick-over or idle and not the wider throttle openings.