New member! With a Misfiring Matchless G2 CSR...

[Ozmadman]

No worries.. I only started this game when I was 58 years old after a 39 year abstinence from bikes so it is good to have a member so young who can carry the good name forward when us old un's are pushing up the daisies. I have a 13 year old son who looks at me in a weird way when I come out with stuff that apparently comes from a time around the dinosaur era and likewise when he speaks, half the time I haven't a clue what he is on about!!

[BultacoBen]

Update:

•Inlet valve oil screw was set at 2/3 turn open. Has now been reduced to 1/6 turn.
•Adv/Ret weights are moving freely
•Am in process of replacing exhaust valve guide, progress here: http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16111 currently waiting on the correct collets (was sent a mismatched pair) and new circlip to get the base plate to sit flat

However, am struggling a bit with setting the timing. Seem to have run out of room for adjustment with the plate!

•First image, piston at 1/4" BTDC on the compression stroke

timing01a.jpg

•Second Image, timing plate is twisted as far anti-clockwise (retarded) as possible. Can see the follower is just at the base of the ramp on the cam.

timing02a.jpg

•Third Image, I have inserted a screwdriver to start opening the auto-advance, this photo is taken at the point that the points open and a spark is triggered, but the auto-advance is not yet fully open! Follower is on the ramp of the cam.

timing03a.jpg

•Can only add three attachments so will include image in a second comment, but fourth image is of the auto advance fully open. This is where the points should just be opening, yet I've got no adjustment left in the plate such that it is.

Without the auto advance forced open the points are opening at about 1/32" BTDC.

So my fully advanced timing seems too advanced, yet if I manage to retard it that will push the spark to ATDC when kicking over. Am I missing something simple like the auto-advance opening even at slow idle so i need not worry about this?

If that's so, then it looks I need to modify the plate so that it can be twisted more anti-clockwise?

[BultacoBen]

Fourth image as promised:

timing04a.jpg

[Janet]

However, am struggling a bit with setting the timing. Seem to have run out of room for adjustment with the plate!................

.................If that's so, then it looks I need to modify the plate so that it can be twisted more anti-clockwise?

I'd go back, check, and refit the Adv/ret unit again. That's what I did when mine wouldn't work. My view is that moving the points plate is for fine tuning. Of course, you haven't read the sorry tales of my mechanicking, have you?

[Ozmadman]

You don't need to modify the points plate, you need to remove the points cam/ Adv unit as Janet has suggested and re-position it on the cam shaft. The workshop manual gives the approx position but you may need a few attempts to get it right

[BultacoBen]

Thank you Janet and Paul! That seems strikingly obvious now... I have seen the diagram with approx position so shall read the accompanying text.

Did attempt to rotate the cam on its shaft but saw that the adv/ret unit allows only one setting (and one incorrect setting at 180°) and didn't delve further into the innards.

Ben

[BultacoBen]

Whilst waiting on the tool to remove plate from shaft to set the timing correctly I've got the engine back together with new guide in and inlet valve oil feed correctly set.

Symptoms are more and more convincing me that the 'issue' is the fuel level.

With the engine all back together it started well enough with a handful of throttle, but died when I took it off the sidestand and stood it upright.

Put a pipe onto the pilot to inspect fuel level in the bowl:

-Upright, fuel level is 1/8" below the pip
-Leaning over on the sidestand fuel level was 1/8" above the pip. Am I right in thinking though that since when the bike is leant over the fuel moves downhill and into the bowl it lowers the effective level as far as the carb is concerned (even if at the edge of the bowl the level is above the pip) ?

The engine has idled best when it was running out of fuel, a second later the engine raced as it went super lean and then died.

These facts imply to me that the fuel level is too high, even if against the pip it is measured as too high.

There is no washer between bowl and needle seat. The needle is viton tipped and like the float is new from Burlen. Jets are also all new. Any ideas?