Hoping I can make myself clear ..
Just occasionally, when I try to start the machine , the kick start arm/lever only moves a fraction then the mechanism hits something solid ..
dab the pedal a few times, lightly and everything is fine.
Looking at the parts catalogue, it would seem the the teeth on the kick start quadrant are not sliding into correct engagement with its companion pinion.
but I don't see how that could happen.
Is there an adjustment, or is the oil possibly the wrong grade (I have not changed the oil .. I have assumed it is correct as put in by a PO, and it looks clean).
Any thoughts??
Thanks
Kick start arm occasionally locks
- Taid
- Posts: 710
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2019 3:35 pm
- Location: Shropshire UK
Kick start arm occasionally locks
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Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
- ajscomboman
- Member
- Posts: 3963
- Joined: Mon Jan 01, 1990 12:00 am
- Location: HAMPSHIRE UK
Re: Kick start arm occasionally locks
Quite a common problem on the B52 gearbox, the solution is to take off the outer cover and grind away the leading edge off the leading tooth. Personally I live with it till it gets so bad it jams all the time then I strip it down.
- Taid
- Posts: 710
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2019 3:35 pm
- Location: Shropshire UK
Re: Kick start arm occasionally locks
Thank you .. I'll leave 'as is' till I have to do something about it ..ajscomboman wrote:Quite a common problem on the B52 gearbox, the solution is to take off the outer cover and grind away the leading edge off the leading tooth. Personally I live with it till it gets so bad it jams all the time then I strip it down.
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Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
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Re: Kick start arm occasionally locks
Hi
It's due to the crests of both teeth co-inciding, it can be alleviated by honing the relevant teeth to remove burrs etc, but to be honest, unless it becomes a pain it's easy enough to just live with it. Your action of a few gentle prods is the correct technique, or even pop it into gear and rock the bike forward - you just need to rotate the main shaft a little
Regards Mick
It's due to the crests of both teeth co-inciding, it can be alleviated by honing the relevant teeth to remove burrs etc, but to be honest, unless it becomes a pain it's easy enough to just live with it. Your action of a few gentle prods is the correct technique, or even pop it into gear and rock the bike forward - you just need to rotate the main shaft a little
Regards Mick