Gutted!!!!

mikeydpippin · Post by **mikeydpippin** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:01 pm

Thanks for all the advise,i am going to glue the adjusting ring into the hub,and loctite the adjusting ring locknut on to hold the cover plate.Anyone know a good glue to hold this,i was considering JB Weld anyone used this or recommend another.
I may also drill and peg it as Ken suggests.Edited by - mikeydpippin on 15 Feb 2009 7:04:53 PM

Rick.Edwards · Post by **Rick.Edwards** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:16 pm

Mikey. All this talk of glue! REPLACE the hub, i will give you a hub if you pay for the postage you can re-use the rim and spokes. AMC full width wheels are the easiest wheels to respoke. In my view replacement is the sensible thing to do rather than all this farting around with what basically amounts to bodging.It may be a good bodge but its still a bodge and you'll always worry about it, plus you have a beautiful bike there dont spoil it. Sorry everyone but i see to a better way to sort this.

itma · Post by **itma** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 9:09 pm

Seconded
with your set up all you need to do is lock it in place; think of the next poor sod who has to take it to bits
I take it the adjuster itself has thread? just screw the ring on to hold the cover plate, no need for locktite/ aradite/ jbweld/blutack or anyother gunge.

g80csp11 · Post by **g80csp11** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 9:17 pm

I agree with Rick , swap the hub . It will only take a few hours to do , even if it's your first attempt at wheel building .
I usually use an old swinging arm mounted in the workmate to hold the wheel while truing. just make sure you measure the offset first and use a spoke key . It's that easy that you can watch the TV at the same time assuming the wife does not mind you working in the lounge .
Take Rick up on his offer of a replacement hub.

mikeydpippin · Post by **mikeydpippin** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 10:30 pm

Common sense approach,and replace hub.I've Pm'd Rick as this is the best way forward.
As explained to Rick I will have to remove the cartridge bearing so will turn oven on ready.
Thanks again everyone,
Special thanks to Rick.

wilko · Post by **wilko** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 10:52 pm

I didn't realise it was the alloy hub. I was thinking of the earlier single sided job!! Der!! Mig i.e

legg · Post by **legg** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:43 am

quote:
Anyone know a good glue to hold this

While not recommending that you do or don't go the glue route, epoxy (including araldite) will stick to aluminium if you go about it the right way. You need to use coarse(ish) wet & dry abrasive paper, using catalysed (that is, mixed) resin or glue instead of water. If you try scuffing up the aluminium dry the aluminium oxidises before the glue hits it. Wet-sanding with the glue or resin seals the aluminium from the atmospheric oxygen while you are providing a mechanical key with the abrasive. I've done a lot of "messing about with boats", and tend to have epoxy resin around. I mix additives to turn it into a glue, high or low density filler etc. Doing the wet sanding thing with straight epoxy and then following up with epoxy thickened with linen microfibres worked for me when I needed to glue aluminium footrests into a wooden kayak. Great stuff! If you want to disassemble, epoxy softens at around 60 deg.C
Good luck, whatever you do.