E3L Dynamo Model 30

Information relating to the Matchless G11 or AJS Model 30 600cc twin
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E3L Dynamo Model 30

Postby Ironhead » Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:01 pm

Hello All, My Dynamo end cap is metal with a bulge there's no connecting block underneath can't find a picture anywhere,looked in the forum ,archives, and various sites to no avail could somebody please send me a picture and how to wire it into the block, and how do you remove the bearings from the armature.
Thanks Alex.

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E3L Dynamo Model 30

Postby Groily » Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:26 pm

Not sure Alex, but if it's the steel one-piece cap-with-a-bulge with a single screw to retain to dynamo body, is there a large U shaped cut-out in the cap next to the body of the dynamo about 10 0'clock looking at it end-on from the drive side? Into which would go a grommet which would have a hole for the F and D wires to pass through and then go directly into the sockets on the dynamo end via their bullet connectors? That certainly was one variation on the E3L end cap, but there are several sorts . . .

As to removing the bearings . . .
Start by undoing the two through-bolts that hold the dynamo together, and the connections to the field coil/brushes at the commutator end. Noting what goes where for reassembly, unless you're happy figuring out the correct direction of rotation etc etc.
The drive end bearing is behind the bit of cheese metal that fits into the timing side crankcase recess, which is held on with three small countersunk-head screws (often hidden under years of jointing compound because of the trickiness of making the joint oil-tight), with an oil seal which goes over a separate collar between the drive pinion and the bearing.
So you need to get the pinion off - knock tab on tab washer back, undo bolt (rh thread), remove tab washer and pull pinion which is keyed - it's a parallel fit (so no taper) but usually quite a hard pull. Soft jaws needed in vice (or a better system) to hold pinion while undoing bolt, to avoid damaging the teeth. Then detach the cheesy end piece. (Might also have to unscrew the draw-stud for the dynamo mounting.) The cheesy bit comes off with the oil seal in it leaving the collar on the armature shaft. The collar comes off with a bit of gentle persuasion. It needs to be a good light press fit as it shares responsibility with the oil seal for keeping the guts of the instrument clean. Its outside face shouldn't be attacked with Mole grips etc to get it off, or the oil seal won't have a snowball's! The bearing is now exposed, which normally comes out quite easily from the dynamo drive-end plate.

For the commutator end bearing - which will normally have stayed attached to the armature when you took off the commutator end plate and brush-holder having undone the through-bolts - it's a question of pulling it off the armature in one piece with a thin puller. The inner race is a gentle press fit. There may be a screw + washer which goes axially into the armature end to remove too.
Sorry haven't got/can't do pix, but it's all much easier than this sounds when you've got the thing on the bench.

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E3L Dynamo Model 30

Postby wilko » Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:41 am

The metal endcap dyno requires a brush holder plate with two push in terminals. I've yet to see one on ebay but there's plenty of the earlier type. I got around this by extending the brush and field wires to come out through the grommeted hole in the plate with two bullet connectors on the ends.

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E3L Dynamo Model 30

Postby GOLDSTAR » Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:10 am

I have done a similare thing to Wilko but attached my leads directly to the brush holders then exited the two wires through the grommet, Wilko's idea will make for easier removing, however there is a post somewhere on this forum discussing the split bullet type conectors normally used and held in place by a'bakerlite' or fibre half moon piece, this post stated Geoff Goff does supply the split type connector, dunno about the retaining part, kind regards

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E3L Dynamo Model 30

Postby aobp11 » Fri Sep 10, 2010 12:10 pm

That retainer only applies to the old type bakelite end cover. On one of my generators the "terminals" are self-threading screws that go into the insulating plate; probably because the previus restorer loved that type of screws, there were more of these at unexpected places.
Alex, to distinguish futher: only the old type plate has 2 elongated holes for the field wires. Lucas numbers:
old plate 200738, cover 200826; new 200911 and 200918.
Albert

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E3L Dynamo Model 30

Postby Ironhead » Fri Sep 10, 2010 8:41 pm

Thanks for that everybody, In the end I removed the bearings by drilling the covers on the ball races with a dremel, taking the balls out then grinding the inner race and breaking off from the armature with no damage to the armature.
I then tested the armature with 6v leads segment to opposite segment on the commutor and got a lovely spark, then by each segment to shaft no spark so I hope its ok, I have still not seen a picture anywhere of the E3L dynamo and the connecting block arrangement so I was thinking of fitting two small connecting blocks on to plate and using that. My magneto is jiggered so I thought I might fit a replacement magneto body with Pazon ignition and twin coil (Paul Goff Sells Them)Has anybody fitted one and what do they think about it.
Thanks Alex

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E3L Dynamo Model 30

Postby aobp11 » Sat Sep 11, 2010 11:31 am

Some of the Lucas documents in the archives contain pictures. This one the late tye:
http://archives.jampot.dk/Technical/Electric/Lucas/Lucas_Catalogues/Lucas_AMC_1950-1969/Lucas_AMC_1957.pdf
Albert

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E3L Dynamo Model 30

Postby bjork » Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:40 pm

quote:

My magneto is jiggered so I thought I might fit a replacement magneto body with Pazon ignition and twin coil (Paul Goff Sells Them)Has anybody fitted one and what do they think about it.
Thanks Alex



As the Pazon seems to be an upgrade of the Boyer system, it is good. You will need to be 100% sure of your dynamo, battery and wiring though! This system needs a well charged battery and a good dynamo to keep it working. If any of the above is less than working, your ignition will be less than working too. My own opinion is that they will be fine with an alternator as it gives enough charge even at low/ish revs, but dynamos tend to struggle unless you are riding with enough engine revs and without lights. As the voltage drops, you will get first misfires and then loss of sparks.

I may eventually get shouted at for mentioning BTH ELECTRONIC MAGNETOS but, they do work regardless of your battery and charging system-just like the original-and will keep working when all the above have failed/overheated/waterlogged etc.
If you are having to buy the dummy mag body and then the Pazon, the cost is comparable, especially if you need to beef up the charging too.

Yes, the makers are friends of mine too, but that still hasn't stopped me from ordering a third BTH-a magdyno type for my T*****h. And yes I do pay for them too!
Using yesterdays technology to create tomorrows problems today

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