Drive side axle

Stuart Jenkins · Post by **Stuart Jenkins** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:57 pm

Hi there,
After quite a few years (first restored G3L at 15, 23 years ago), i'm returning to British bikes...well bits of British bikes anyway! I've acquired a '54 AJS18 bottom end and barrel, and various engine shaped rusty bits of metal. I'll be very slowly restoring the engine, as and when funds allow, and will no doubt be asking the collective masses for their superior knowledge.

My first question is (I know there will be many!), i've striped the bottom end down, and split/dismantled the crank shaft, I already know i'll have to replace the timing side axle, as the worm gear is badly chipped in a couple of places, But i'd like advice on the drive side axle. The thread are all good, as are the bearing faces, but each of the splines has a long curved indent, is this wear? are the spline edges supposed to be parallel? If it is wear can I fill in weld, then grind back to shape? or is it better to get a new/good second hand one?
Hopefully a photo will be attached:
[img][/img
http://www.flickr.com/photos/isheyeshei ... 899464394/

Many thanks
StuartEdited by - Stuart Jenkins on 04 Apr 2012 7:13:35 PM

itma · Post by **itma** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:30 pm

Its knackered, new shafts are available from the spares scheme.
big-end will be shot as well,do the lot at once

nottsSteve · Post by **nottsSteve** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:49 pm

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g35 ... rin003.jpg

Picture is of my axle. kept going a lot longer than yours.
Not suggesting you dont renew the axle but the big end on mine was fine.
Have little experience with these bikes and I dont know whether Itmas comment is generally right though.

Stuart Jenkins · Post by **Stuart Jenkins** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:19 pm

oh yes, the big end is very knackered, I will be doing the lot, but my pockets will vouch, not at once.
Many thanks
Stuart

Peter Lecompte · Post by **Peter Lecompte** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 1:00 am

hey Stuart, what method did you use to split the crankshaft? I have a 1950 G80 one to do in the next few days. Thanks Peter

Stuart Jenkins · Post by **Stuart Jenkins** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:00 am

Hi Peter,
My crank was well rusted up, with the conrod corroded to the big end, with no movement at all. So i had it soaking in diesel for about a week, and then a good coating of penetration spray every couple of days, as I feared nothing would be able to budge it!
I used a long break-bar on the socket, with an old fork tube (for an extra bit of leverage), and both the axle, and big end nuts unscrewed without to much trouble.
I supported the flywheels, and used a copper hammer to knock the crank pin flush with the flywheel, then a brass rod about the same diameter as the pin, to drift it out all the way. Once the flywheels were separated I was able to get to the axle nuts and undo them. Both axles were removed the same way as the crank pin.
Even though it looked like nothing would be of use in the crank shaft, i didn't want to be to brutal when taking it to bits just i case. As it is the flywheels have cleaned up nice and are useable, so has the conrod.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Stuart

cf160 · Post by **cf160** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:18 pm

Aren't there wedges available somewhere to separate the flywheels ? I think I was told this at some time or other.

Don Madden · Post by **Don Madden** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 12:29 am

Wedges sound like a good way to bugger the holes in the soft flywheels. Cheers, Don.

iandusud · Post by **iandusud** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:05 pm

I've split cranks by cutting 3 set screws so that they just fit between the flywheels. Fit the set screws with a nut and space them evenly around the crank pin. One by one undo them a little at a time.

Ian