Matchless G5 back on the road

[Al_Bolton]

With grateful appreciation of the powers-that-be, my 1960 Matchless G5 is back on the road. Luckily, it was actually manufactured in November 1959 (have all the club paperwork - it has the original engine still) and registered on 6 January 1960 - so it doesn't need an MoT!!!!

I worked on it for 4 evenings in my friend's garage to get it running - it has sat there for nearly 2 years as I worked on getting my trusty Model 8 re-registered and on the road.

However...it's been tempting to be a bit lax with the G5 as it doesn't have to go through an MoT test. Yes, I KNOW it has to still be roadworthy...yes, I know I can still be nicked on it...yes, I know the insurance company could fail to pay out if it finds a fault.

This all said...I road it home without a working brake-light!

Now I'm working on it further to make it nicer to ride, specifically:

1) Rebuilding the carb. I fitted the nearly-new carb from my Model 8 to the G5 for a few days - it ran well and ticked over reasonably well. I rebuilt the original G5 carb with new jets, gaskets, etc etc. Put it on and a cacophany of popping and banging and spluttering ensued. Yes, there is an internal blockage in the pilot jet area...grrrrrr...even though I cleaned it out, blew it clear, etc. So that carb is off again.

2) Replacing a front fork bush. Oh how I hate these forks. They are a right ugger to get off and these have never been apart in my tenure of ownership. But I can feel a tinky-winky bit of play in one leg. Will have to bite the bullet...

3) Painting spare sidepanel and adding transfer. Done the (hand) painting and it looks good. Put the (correct) transfer on. I know it should be coated with varnish but despite reading every post on the subject, I still don't know which varnish will work - anyone with a link to a can of the stuff? My gratitude would be enormous...

4) Replacing the swing-arm bushes. There's a bit too much play for my liking in the bushes - handling is..."interesting". Another tedious job, requiring all sorts of stuff to be stripped out of the way. And swearing.

5) Sorting out the bleedin' tank rubbers - they always make the tank sit too high. I have my Stanley knife at the ready for a bit of rubber trimming...

6) Adding the brake light. I have a spare unit to hand and will try to find the best place to attach it. Honest, officer!

That's enough jobs for now...

[Ozmadman]

Hi Al

I have done all those jobs on my Model 8 apart from the swing arm bushes and I agree, the front forks are a bugger but worth it once done (both my stanchions were slightly bent and the fork seals had taken up permanent residence). As for the side panel transfers, if they are the stick on variety as opposed to the water slide ones then either Hycote Acrylic spray lacquer or Hycote petrol resistant lacquer will do the job..( this stuff is ok over acrylic, enamel or cellulose ) I have used both but now use the petrol resistant stuff on everything I paint as a safeguard against petrol splashes. Just be aware that your 3 or 4 coats MUST BE COMPLETED WITHIN A HOUR OR SO AND CANNOT BE OVER COATED WITH THE SAME STUFF OTHERWISE IT WILL LIFT. If you really need to overcoat it for any reason, as I did once on a petrol tank, then spray a few coats of the normal acrylic lacquer on first. LEAVE IT FOR A week or so and then do the petrol resistant stuff again. If you want a perfect finish then some T Cut and wax polish after leaving it a couple of weeks will give you an amazing finish. I have spilt petrol on this lacquer on my tank and wiped it off straight away and had no problems unlike spillages on normal lacquer which comes off instantly..


Paul

[cbranni]

That's good news Al, well done and a happy New Year to you and yours.

Colin

[Al_Bolton]

Thanks Paul. I've rebuilt the forks on the other Lightweights and had no problems really apart from the grip of age! Luckily, my stanchions on the other bike were still straight and had no real corrosion but it was still a fight to get the things apart.

The transfers I have are the water-slide type rather than the sticker type, though I must say I was tempted to try stickers.

Now it's actually sunny down in the south and it would be a good day for tinkering and riding - and I'm at bleedin' work!!!

Best wishes to all Lightweighteers for 2013!

[Ozmadman]

Thanks Paul.
The transfers I have are the water-slide type rather than the sticker type, though I must say I was tempted to try stickers.

Hi Al

The stickers look good, you can get two shades, light or dark blue and they are tough, just make sure you get them in the right place first time as they will be impossible to move without damaging them. Here is a picture of mine, ignore the differences in colour on one of the pictures it was just the way the light hit it..

[Al_Bolton]

Very nice, Paul - hand painted too, I believe, and with an excellent finish! I've seen them on ePay - or do you have another source?

Cheers,
Al

[Ozmadman]

Hi Al

Yes from ebay, haven't checked recently but there were a few people selling them. They are indeed hand painted but would probably not hand paint anything again as it's too time consuming as you have to wait a few days between coats, do a lot of rubbing down and cutting back before you can add the transfers and lacquer. I used enamel paint which is not petrol resistant nor was the original clear lacquer I put on at first thinking that no way would petrol get on the side panels.. WRONG!!! Whilst checking the fuel level with a piece of tubing on the bottom of the pilot jet I flicked some petrol from the other end of the tubing over the side panel whilst draining it!!! instant lacquer removal. So I managed to correct it rubbing out the "runs" with some T Cut and then I over lacquered it with some petrol resistant stuff.

Paul

[Al_Bolton]

I've done all my painted bits by hand on my Model 8, Paul...it's truly a labour of love.

However, I'm not putting so much effort into the G5, so I've used Smoothrite aerosol on a recently unbent sidepanel. Reasonable finish considering, but it's important to spray many light coats or you get bubbles and runs. I've got some of that petrol-resistant lacquer to try - good tip, thank you.

The G5 is running ok, but the gearbox is clonky - I think the clutch is dragging a bit which doesn't help. It changes gear fine and doesn't drop out of gear though, so will do for now. I have a rebuilt box ready in my garage if it fails anyway.

Cheers,
Al

Hi Al

Yes from ebay, haven't checked recently but there were a few people selling them. They are indeed hand painted but would probably not hand paint anything again as it's too time consuming as you have to wait a few days between coats, do a lot of rubbing down and cutting back before you can add the transfers and lacquer. I used enamel paint which is not petrol resistant nor was the original clear lacquer I put on at first thinking that no way would petrol get on the side panels.. WRONG!!! Whilst checking the fuel level with a piece of tubing on the bottom of the pilot jet I flicked some petrol from the other end of the tubing over the side panel whilst draining it!!! instant lacquer removal. So I managed to correct it rubbing out the "runs" with some T Cut and then I over lacquered it with some petrol resistant stuff.

Paul

[Ozmadman]

The G5 is running ok, but the gearbox is clonky - I think the clutch is dragging a bit which doesn't help. It changes gear fine and doesn't drop out of gear though, so will do for now. I have a rebuilt box ready in my garage if it fails anyway.

Cheers,
Al

Hi Al
My gearbox has a third gear whine which apparently is not uncommon but changes fine a stays in gear, it also has a small main shaft seal leak. I too have a rebuilt spare. How easy is it to change the box when I decide to do it? and when I come to dismantle the other one, what is it that makes the whine and what am I looking for, wear wise, so i can correct it?

many thanks Paul

[Al_Bolton]

They all do that whine sir...it can/could be due to someone running the box low of oil...allegedly. My 8 and G5 whine a bit, but it's not a big deal. The boxes are okish to rebuild, but parts can be a pain - even finding bearings is a nuisance. There's a good article on rebuilding a ?G2 box somewhere in the Archives.

They aren't too difficult to swap out.

Cheers, Al

Hi Al
My gearbox has a third gear whine which apparently is not uncommon but changes fine a stays in gear, it also has a small main shaft seal leak. I too have a rebuilt spare. How easy is it to change the box when I decide to do it? and when I come to dismantle the other one, what is it that makes the whine and what am I looking for, wear wise, so i can correct it?

many thanks Paul[/quote]