AJS & Matchless Owners Club

I plan to fit an AGM Battery with one of Goffys A REG6 Rgulators.
Will I still need the Resistance wire or will I need to remove it.
Has anyone out there done this and can advise me please.
Any imformation will be welcome.
regards Ray Bowman.

RAY BOWMAN wrote:I plan to fit an AGM Battery with one of Goffys A REG6 Rgulators.
Will I still need the Resistance wire or will I need to remove it.
Has anyone out there done this and can advise me please.
Any imformation will be welcome.
regards Ray Bowman.

Yes you do, I fitted a AREG 6 volt a while ago now(albeit with a standard battery). My resistance wire had been replaced already with another type of resistor fixed inside the headlamp when it had a professional re-wire by the PO just before he sold it to me and I was told to remove that, no need for it evidently with the AREG. You will get instructions with it from Paul Goff which I found a little unclear so here are some more(given to me by a member on here) which you can use alongside those..

" Remove battery
Remove old rectifier note the colours of wires
Bolt new unit to mudguard(or anywhere else it will go), does not have to be earthed.
You have Wipac alternator so the coloured wires will be light green, orange and white coming from alternator, remove plate covering gearbox and you will find a four way bullet conector, remove conector, using single conector join the two maroon wires this wire goes to the points.
Using another single conector join the two white wires, the white should go to the old rectifier
Using a double conector fit the light green and orange (from the alternator) so they become one wire and fit the light green (from the old rectifier0 to the other side. You will have a spare orange wire down by the four way connector, just insulate it and leave it hang
The two green or yellow wires (sometimes they are yellow sometimes green) from AREG are conected to the light green and white wires from the the old rectifier, it doesn't matter which way round, the red from the AREG goes to earth/frame and the black goes to the brown which was the DC output from old rectifier and is the live supply to the ammeter
Thats it"

I made a simple wiring diagram from this description and used that when working on the bike, much better than trying to read a description whilst doing the wiring.
The AREG comes with instructions, if you buy from Paul Goff you can ring him for advice, he is very helpful

Paul

Hi Paul,
Thanks for your reply I found the imformation so helpfull.
Kind Regards,
Ray Bowman.

The resistance wire was to absorb excess current when operating without lights and thus reduce the chance of over charging the battery. There was no other control to reduce charging......As you are going to install electronic regulation then you should simply feed ALL the alternators current directly to the regulator and let this control the charge rate to the system. In fact even if the resistance wire was intact I would remove/cut it out of the circuit as it will just waste power when the lights are switched off and the engine is running. This wasted current flowing through the resistance wire has to be continually metered out by the regulator and it will therefore run very slightly hotter which is unnecessary and will sap power from the engine too......(OK not that much...but it does take engine power all the same).....all quite a waste.....Les

Thanks Les,
As they say "Every little helps".
Kind Regards,
Ray Bowman.

""SORTED"
Thanks Paul and Les for your helpfull comments.
Kind Regards,
Ray Bowman.

No worries neat bit of kit the AREG. Mines been running fine with this fitted for over a year now.
Paul