Need to get into this panel to change the kickstart spring and to fix an oil leak from the panel .
Iv got the small inspection panel off and the kickstart and gear lever but the panel remains stuck solid !
Does the panel come off ? I don't want to abuse it too much but I can't see anything else holding it unless the splines for the 2 levers come off separately?
Any methods for getting it off ? Tried the rubber mallet and levering ....
Your best investment would be a workshop manual available from the parts service. In the meantime remove the nut holding the footrest and either remove or let the footrest flop and unscrew the cheese head screws holding on the large outer cover. Under the cover you will find another set of screws holding on the outer cover of the gearbox that you have been levering away at. The small access panel is merely for filling the box with oil and inserting the clutch cable into the lifting arm. The oil level is the bottom lip of the opening.
Hi You need to remove the whole engine cover 4 scews. there's no oil as its really just a styling piece to make the bike look like its unit construction. Once you have taken this off - and by the way you need to remove the foot peg and unbolt the exhaust from the rear frame mount to allow the cover to move, you will see that the gearbox cover is held with six screws as per AJScomcboman's response.
Please please look back through the G5 threads as there is a wealth of information about the gearbox posted by Paul and myself when i was struggling. Get the workshop manual and check the archives as there is a magazine article relating to lightweight gear box strip downs somewhere....
Just to add, the 6 screws already mentioned clamp the entire gearbox together which is in 3 sections the cover the (one you need to take off), a thin central plate and the main casing which holds all the gears. Once you have removed the 6 screws you may find the that casings begin to pull apart as you try to remove the outer cover, it should be fine as the main shaft nut (behind that domed casing where the clutch lever is) should stop them coming completely apart SO DRAIN THE OIL COMPLETELY otherwise you will get in a right mess!! Try to keep them together if you can as that will help stop any damage to the gaskets and prevent leaks when you tighten it all up again (break a gasket and you will have to dismantle the box). all of the gear change stuff (spring and Pawl) will remain in the outer casing.. It will be self explanatory once you get it apart and whilst you are at it, change the gasket, the kickstart shaft seal, the gear changer shaft seal and the two small o rings on the selector rod, they are prone to leaking and may still do so with new seals...
here is a picture of what the gearbox looks like once the engine casing is removed and what the other side of that gearbox cover looks like
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Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
ajscomboman wrote:Your best investment would be a workshop manual available from the parts service. In the meantime remove the nut holding the footrest and either remove or let the footrest flop and unscrew the cheese head screws holding on the large outer cover. Under the cover you will find another set of screws holding on the outer cover of the gearbox that you have been levering away at. The small access panel is merely for filling the box with oil and inserting the clutch cable into the lifting arm. The oil level is the bottom lip of the opening.
Iv got a manual but I couldn't find any info , in fact I find the manual one of the least helpful Iv ever came across . . . .
Wow I didn't see the whole side having to come off , just as well I didn't force it any further . I'll try and look back and find some posts and pictures on it . Thanks for the help , It just looks like that large plate would come out . Thanks for the replies !
Must admit I partly agree with you RE the manual, there are many things that are not explained as well as they could be. I think it was more of a guidance for the AJS/Matchless/AMC mechanics( in the days of real mechanics and not just fitters!!) rather that a full blown descriptive manual for the man in the street.
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
It is Blue Hylomar used with a gasket as well. TBH I don't use the stuff anymore but I now use Wellseal as a far better sealant with no chance of bits breaking off unlike Hylomar which, if squeezed out of a joint, forms lumps that can break off and block things up. I used Wellseal in the old days (70's) as recommended by VW for the vertical gasket less crankcase joints on the beetle engines and I never had any leaks. I went back to it when I recently rebuilt my 350 lightweight engine (again, vertical gasket less crankcase joint) and I have no leaks!!! British Bike with no leaks!!! enough said... Will not use anything else now( I use it on gaskets where there is a gasket, just to make sure)
Paul
1960 Model 8
1974 Yamaha RD250B US Model 6 speed
I know what you mean about the hylomar breaking off , found afew bits inside the casing from previous repairs , I tend to put a really fine smear on each side as well as a gasket . Some folk layer hylomar on and I think that's when problems occur ! I'll look into wellseal. My hylomar must be a historic tube as it's nowhere near is vivid as your picture !
