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Re: Front Suspension on 1938 M26
Posted: Mon May 30, 2016 9:34 pm
by upperstoker
Thanks Rob,
I will ask the spring manufactures to make the spring to 7 1/2"
The measurements you and Duncan kindly supplied where when the spring is on the bike under normal load, is there a difference when the spring is not fitted?
Out of interest would you know if the club have details i.e. working drawings of any parts for pre war machines?
Re: Front Suspension on 1938 M26
Posted: Mon May 30, 2016 10:18 pm
by Rob Harknett
I measured my 1938 bikes spring with the bike on its rear stand. Very little weigh compared to it being on its wheels.
Re: Front Suspension on 1938 M26
Posted: Tue May 31, 2016 10:21 am
by Rob Harknett
1929 onwards AJS springs are available, I would had thought for no later than the last AJS of Wolverhampton.
Late 1930's springs are available in Australia. 90$ Au. + P&P.
Alberta Springs of Colchester would make from pattern.
I am not aware of there being a drawing available. One could be made from pattern, but makers may prefer an original spring.
Re: Front Suspension on 1938 M26
Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 2:18 pm
by upperstoker
New 7 1/2" long spring now on bike and all sitting properly. The spring is now well away from the frame and the links are running almost horizontal. All in all a good result so thanks for all your contributions much appreciated.
I could do with further help as I am not sure about the principles and setting up of the links and how tight they should be?
Also on the top link, left hand facing the bike/the non threaded link, I have spacers between the frame and the link. Should these spacers slide freely along the bar i.e. threaded and solid areas? Mine are currently sitting at the end of the threaded section but do not pass over the solid area of the bar, is this correct or is it likely they have been damaged?
Alan
PS I have had a spare spring made so if any one is interested please let me know.
Re: Front Suspension on 1938 M26
Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 3:49 pm
by Rob Harknett
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Workshop ... dition.pdf
page 69 you should be able to se from my pictures where parts go. Did you first screw the spindle bolts almost all the way into the thread links.
Then take up all free play the other end see my pics for that. Go by the feel of things as to tightness when adjusting the spindle/links. Use the fork damper knob will adjust spring bounce, adjust this to suit riding conditions. Use the steering damper knob too adjust head brearings, loose you will find it difficult not to oversteer, too tight gives the opposite effect