AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Ok - so no torque wrenches then! . Would I be OK proceeding as follows Rob?

- engine sprockets - tighten up as tight a possible (without any additional leverage over standard tool).
- dynamo sprocket - nip up snug only, as not under a huge load and external lock nut/circlip will prevent it coming undone.
- clutch hub- tighten up as tight a possible (without any additional leverage over standard tool)

Thanks for your advice so far.

Stephen G80 wrote:Ok - so no torque wrenches then! . Would I be OK proceeding as follows Rob?

- engine sprockets - tighten up as tight a possible (without any additional leverage over standard tool).
- dynamo sprocket - nip up snug only, as not under a huge load and external lock nut/circlip will prevent it coming undone.
- clutch hub- tighten up as tight a possible (without any additional leverage over standard tool)

Thanks for your advice so far.

That's about what most of us do. Once you start to tighten the engine sprocket the spring will start to compress , so it depends how strong the spring is when this happens, it may start to open up the cush drive cups. If that's the way to describe this happening. The dynamo sprocket is a bit more involved. It has a woodruff key that fits in the armature and sprocket. You must use the special dynamo nut. This tighten the sprocket on the tapered dynamo shaft. Next a special lock washer is fitted on the nut, which has two tabs that are punched down into the two slots in the sprocket. A special circlip then fits on the groove in the nut to hold the tab locking washer on. I assume you do have the special nut, tab locking washer and circlip. These must be fitted to stop the nut coming undone. Club spares sell the parts which must be fitted. If the nut comes off it will result in at least expensive damage to dynamo armature and chains. Perhaps an nasty accident if it has you off the bike. There are ways to hold the clutch to tighten the clutch up. This is via making a special tool with an old clutch plate. Or, with chains fitted and rear brake on. Long time since I have done all this so may be something I have forgotten. Someone is sure to correct me if I am wrong., or simply agree. Some people may be offended by disagreement. Not me, I would sooner be corrected or perhaps some one else give an opinion to consider, if they use a different approach. Which I would also take note of myself for consideration in tackling a job.

Many thanks for all the tips and info Rob, they will enable me to do a pukka job. Here is the my bike for interest.

Looks like a bike to be ridden and enjoyed with worrying about it getting dirty. I am sure the SR1 mag was introduced on 1954 500's. Which yours has not got.

yup - she gets "ridden" hard - the clue is in the tyres - tread gets worn down right across - I quite like the manual A/R - proper biking. I think she left the factory as a GL3 according to records- which might explain the mag ( am I correct they still had manual A/R on '54 GL3?), but she has a full G80 engine now ie the CCs are stamped G80.

Stephen G80 wrote:yup - she gets "ridden" hard - the clue is in the tyres - tread gets worn down right across - I quite like the manual A/R - proper biking. I think she left the factory as a GL3 according to records- which might explain the mag ( am I correct they still had manual A/R on '54 GL3?), but she has a full G80 engine now ie the CCs are stamped G80.

Yes SR 1 mag did not come until 55 on the 350.